I just re-caulked a bath tub for the first time. In one spot, I took off a little too much caulk when smoothing the bead, and when the caulk dried, a harline gap formed between the caulk and the edge of the tiles, about an inch long.
I used an acrylic tub caulk. Is there any way to fix this by adding a little bit of caulk in the gap, or some other product? If I do have to remove everything and recaulk it, can I redo just that caulk line, or do I have to redo the whole tub?
Jimmy
Redo the whole tub? You can't possibly be serious...
You can do whatever you want. Patching up the gap is fine but you'll see the patch. It will look a lot better if you do the whole line over so you can hide the gaps in the corners.
Did you wipe the tub and tile with bleach prior to caulking? If not, I would re-do the whole thing, as you are likely to have mildew growing under the caulk; will cause, at least, discoloration and constantly fighting more mildew growth. I would use nothing but silicone caulk for tub or shower. I've redone almost every caulking job I've undertaken...practice, practice, practice :o) I also tape the edges with painters tape and remove the tape right away. On the tub side, tape isn't as helpful because if a little caulk squeezes beyond the edge of the tip, you can let it cure, trim with razor blade, and peel off the extra little bead.
re: ...practice, practice, practice...
If you really want to learn how to caulk, replace all of the windows in your house. Considering the windows themselves (inside and out) and all of the gaps around the aluminum and/or vinyl trim, there's a lot of caulking to do.
Start at the upper back, or at whatever window is the hardest to see. By the time you work your way around to the most visible windows, you'll be pretty d*mn good at it. If time allows, practice on all of the interiors first since that bead will be covered by trim.
re: I also tape the edges with painters tape and remove the tape right away.
I used to use tape, but I always ending up with a ridge that needed to be smoothed anyway.
Now I use the right amount of caulk for the size of the gap (using backer rod if needed) and smooth it with a wet finger.
I still hate caulking, but I'm not *afraid* of it anymore.
You might try a little bit of clear caulk on the spot you missed. If the "hairline gap" is small enough that's all you'll see - instead of a patch of white caulk.
I was just doing some of mine yesterday (not replacing - but the previous owners had never sealed them inside. I did the exteriors last year, just never got around to the interior - but I figure they leak cold air from within the walls, so I'm best doing them now the weather's getting cooler)
Yeah, me too. Hardest part I always found was knowing when to back off on the gun's trigger so it stops oozing out at the right spot, rather than caulk pouring out long after I'm done :-) Got it down to an art these days, though...
I've never minded it. Painting I hate, though. If there's somewhere I'm not supposed to be getting the paint, that's where it'll end up... I usually delegate painting jobs to the wife. cheers
Jules
Are you freakin nuts?????? They're talking about caulking a hairline crack around the tub! You tell him to replace the windows to get practice.
Patting yourself on the back is one thing, but good God man, use your head!
Hey Lou,
Go back and see which post I responded to with the window "suggestion".
Then go back and read my response to the OP.
P.S. I might be freakin nuts, but that has nothing to do with this thread.
re: Hardest part I always found was knowing when to back off on the gun's trigger so it stops oozing out at the right spot, rather than caulk pouring out long after I'm done.
There's no real need to back off on the trigger early in the run just to stop the oozing.
Keep your thumb near the tab under the plunger rod. As soon as you want to stop the caulk from coming out, pop to tab to release the pressure.
" snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net"
There was no mildew on the old caulk, or anywhere else on the tiles or tub. The tub was totally dry, since it hadn' t been used in several weeks. I waited several days between removing the old caulk and putting in the new. Do you still think I'll have a mildew problem?
Jimmy
After I made a mess of reinstalling aluminum framed shower doors, I got a tip from a pro....full strength bleach to wipe surfaces, silicone caulk.
Everywhere I have lived that had acryllic caulk also was constantly mildewy; the caulk jobs were admittedly poorly done.
When I removed and replaced grout in our tiled shower, I discovered that a huge amount of soap scum can be present without it showing...pale beige matte finish tile....finally started scraping the tile because I constantly smelled soap but had scrubbed the tile. Just a reminder that stuff that looks clean isn't necessarily so :o) Also need to make the caulk bead concave so that it doesn't hold water/soap.
He has a hairline crack in his caulk. I think the next logical step would be to replace the windows... What are YOU thinking..:0)
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Keeping reading, my friend, keep reading...
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