'test wiring' my Ideal German paper shredder/bypassing the circuit board

was given a 'lightly disassembled', non-functional (but complete) German paper shredder, and told 'it won't run' and 'you can have it'. Not sure what the problem is exactly, but, right now I _need_ a shredder, but before going further, I'd like to 'partially test it' by bypassing the small circuit board <and its sensors> and just seeing if I can get the motor to 'power up' monetarily, at least. however, not sure the motor on the shredder is 'capacitor start/capacitor run' type or if it's just 'capacitor start only'? how's one figure THAT out, anyway?
PLEASE see about 15 good clear pix of this shredder and it's wires I posted at http://members.cox.net/tool_box /
it's an "Ideal model 2100" made in Germany by Ideal-Werk, if that helps any...
thanks for ideas on this :-)
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I couldn't be bothered with a paper shredder. I have a fireplace in the backyard into which I simply throw any 'confidential' papers and toss a lighted match in after them. Easier and faster and less bulk to throw out.
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (bill yohler) writes:

Can't tell from the pix but you can always assume it's capacitor start and see if it will turn, then disconnect the capacitor. Any induction motor will continue to run (unloaded) with only one phase once it starts.
--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
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Quit waisting your - our time buy a new one or rip it up
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is this ALT GARBAGE REPAIR
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Just short out the relay contacts, that's it. No matter what sort of motor it uses (looks like capacitor run) there is only one relay in the circuit and it is the only part that actually switches the motor thus the only thing to bypass.
Dimitrij
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This IS a made for the States version isnt it? Germany uses 220VAC for such...and another reason the board can be configured in both voltages...
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (bill yohler) wrote in

It MIGHT have a pulse width modulator circuit that feeds more power to the motor as the load inceases. I have an electric lawnmower with a similar cuicuit. Look for a square piece of black plastic, might say like 2916 or 2919 or something like that. If so, you could fix it or make a replacement circuit (see www.allegromicro.com), but it's really not worth it.
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From: Sam

start and

motor
right, I was assuming it's at _least- cpacitior start, but really hoping to find out here if it's also 'capacitor run' as well<???>is there some way I can tell, or 'best judge' wether it is or not by the spec's on side of the cap itself?
From: Des

the
a
throw out.
right, wife and I've been burning box after box of stuff in a 5 gallon metal pail...stirring it up with an old rebar. but it takes hours sometimes, and it gets kinda, uhh, hot...plus we get all 'smokey stink', flaming stuff blowing all over the yard...... :-)
From: Dimitrij

motor
circuit
only thing

well, if it's just 'capacitor start' only, and I do as you advise, wouldn't that 'burn out' the cap 'in short order'?
From: CBhvac

yes, for sure, it's "known to be a US version".

yes, right...
From: (none) 'lawnmower man' :-)

to the

similar
2916 or

replacement
so you're saying it's some kind of 'chip' then? other than what's pictured (the circuit board, cap, and motor) there are NO other electrical devices on the shredder of ANY sort, other than a thermal sensor, in the steel upper cover/center (lead from it plugs into the circuit board)
ok, guys, I'm still trying to figure out if it's capacitor RUN as well as being capacitor start. how best to guess?
by the way, is there any possibility the capacitor could be just for RUN and NOT also be for "start"? (I'm guessing no, but??)
there are four leads out of my motor 'sheath', and 2 out of the 'capacitor'. that info help any? also, without too much trouble, I could temporarily unbolt the cap and/or the motor, to take good clear pix of their labels/nomenclature plates and post those. would any of that help clear anything up?
...obviously, I'm still clueless :-/
thanks to all :-)
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (bill yohler) writes:

If you mean the "240 uF" that was visible in one of the photos, that's way too big for a run cap.
--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Home Page: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Site Info: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
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Every home I've been in in Germany was wired for 240 volts, 50 Hz. The only 120 volt source you'll find is a step-down transformer powering US electronics.
RB
bill yohler wrote:

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