Smoke Detectors

I bought three new smoke detectors at Lowes and installed them. One was battery/AC, two were battery. Just after the warranty expired, all three failed. They beeped like the battery was bad. Replacing the batteries with brand new ones on all three did not resolve the problem. They all continued to chirp at the most inopportune time (the middle of the night). As far as I can tell, these Kidde units are pure garbage. Is there a better unit available that's affordable for residential use?
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On 3/8/2012 8:39 AM, mcp6453 wrote:

I purchased a brand called Iophic by Universal Security. Garbage detector IMHO. It was supposed to tell the difference between cooking heat/fumes and a real smoke/fire hazard. We had more false alarms with that thing.
I understand that Kidde are not liked by a few but we have 4 Kidde branded smoke detectors and 3 Kidde branded gas/co2 detectors in our home right now in use and never a problem. The one smoke detector closest to the kitchen has a remote controller silencer for false alarms that we like. It buys you 7 minutes of silence if you hit the false alarm button from up to 50 feet away.
One question for you: are these smoke detectors that pick up carbon monoxide as well? Are you positive the alarms are not trying to tell you something??? You better be positive for your family's safety that all THREE are failing.
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mcp6453 wrote:

At the same time? I find that odd. How old were they?

Do you have a monitored security system? If so, the very best fire protection should come from them. They will install quality detectors that will also be monitored, a huge advantage to saving property (and lives).
I don't deal with cheapie stand-alone smoke alarms. But I can tell you a professional photoelectric-type detector costs me $40 at least, wholesale.
Don't go cheap whatever you do! If you don't have an alarm system, get a set of detectors that are 'interlinked' (one goes off, they all do). Also, get photoelectric-type sensors rather than ionization-type. Photoelectric's will detect the smoldering fires faster than the ionization, and you'll have fewer 'false alarms' due to occasional burnt meat-loaf kitchen smoke.
If you go wireless, a heat detector in the kitchen is a nice add-on (Never a smoke detector in a kitchen!).
Bring it up to current code while you're thinking of this. One on the inside of each bedroom. One covering the outside of all sleeping areas on each floor, 15' radius range.
--
I remixed a remix, it was back to normal. -Mitch Hedberg


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On 3/8/2012 10:16 AM, G. Morgan wrote:

No, I don't have a monitored system. Thanks for your comments. Can you recommend some "non-cheap" brand name detectors?
To another poster, the detectors are no CO as well. The CO detector works fine.
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mcp6453 wrote:

I wish I could, but I can't; I would just be guessing without first-hand experience.
All I can recommend is make sure they are inter-connected and photo-electric type. You may want to check out professional security parts-sales sites and see if they carry non-connected to alarm system brand names. System Sensor, Honeywell, GE Security are some professional brands.
These guys have the inter-connected ones, but I have no hands-on experience with BRK.
http://www.brkelectronics.com /
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mcp6453 wrote:

If all three failed at the same time, then none of them failed.
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Test the batteries.
I got some universal units, no problems.
Greg
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*I spoke with Kidde a year or so ago about that problem. Remove the batteries and disconnect the smoke alarm from the 120 volt power. Press and hold the test buttons for at least a full minute. Reinsert the batteries and wire the 120 volts back. If that doesn't correct the problem, replace.
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"Windows for smoke detectors. Just reboot."
--

Christopher A. Young
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