Shim an existing vinyl replacement window


We moved into a house where the existing vinyl windows were not installed correctly. Wind comes in between the window and the casing. On one window, the top one falls down as soon as it is unlocked. I have already tightened the adjustor screws as much as possible, but it is not enough. I believe the only way is to shim the window. I am looking for the best/easiest way to do this. I am up for any ideas. Thanks
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On Feb 16, 3:52 pm, snipped-for-privacy@meatonconsulting.com wrote:

Do you have a complete vinyl window assembly or just vinyl replacement sashes? The problem you described sounds like poorly installed replacement sashes. Trying to improve the situation may be nearly impossible by jiggering the framing. Consider getting some quotes from a reputable contractor for remedies, then decide the best cpourse of action. Good luck.
Joe
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| We moved into a house where the existing vinyl windows were not | installed correctly. Wind comes in between the window and the | casing. On one window, the top one falls down as soon as it is | unlocked. I have already tightened the adjustor screws as much as | possible, but it is not enough.
try backing off the top screws if the screws are to tight the window WILL fall
I believe the only way is to shim the | window. I am looking for the best/easiest way to do this. I am up | for any ideas. Thanks
|
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Thanks. I will try backing off the top screws. Also, I believe they are the complete assemblies. Thanks for the suggestions.
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On Feb 17, 8:31 am, snipped-for-privacy@meatonconsulting.com wrote: Also, I believe they

That being the case, try to determine the manufacturer and ask their customer service for the installation guide/directions. Likewise, check out window assemblies at Pella. Andersen, showrooms and displays at the box stores. You could score a match that way and get some literature that would help. If your windows were flange-nailed types, you may have to remove inside trim and fill open cavities with insulation and/or latex foam. In the worst case, exterior trim and even siding may have to be removed to install proper flashing. It will be a learning process, but most commercial windows these days are well refined products so your odds for success are good. HTH
Joe
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Thanks Joe. However, it appears to me that the person who installed just bought windows that were 1/2" too small. It seems that when he screwed the window frame to the house, it pulled the frame away from the actual window. That would account for the 1/8" gap between the window and the frame. To be sure I am explaining this correctly, I uploaded a picture of the window here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/41436756@N00/393021771 / Thanks again for your help Joe!
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If he did what you aid, the frame would be bowed in the middle or separated at corners. Is it possible that some insulating strips are missing that go between window and frame channels.

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Well, I decided to see what I could do by taking off the strip of moulding on either side of the front of the window. Turns out there was about 1/2" of empty space on either side. The screws holding in the window were never tightened enough to bow the window. I ripped 2 1/2" pieces from a 2x4 and slid them on either side of the window. That worked perfectly, allowing me to tighten the adjuster screws in the middle of the window. The adjusters did not work before because they never made it to the window casing! Thanks for all the advice. It's great to have a place like this to turn to for a little help.
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1/2 inch is not that far off but the screws should have been thru shimms that took up the gap where the screws were. Hopefully the windows were flashed properly otherwise they won't last. Visit Pella windows site for instructions on window installation. Valuable info that applies to all windows.

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