Samsung 27" TV doesn't work.

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On Sun, 24 Dec 2006 16:49:17 GMT, AZ Nomad

That was my thought and if this is not digital capable it is a time bomb anyway. I know I have seen guys throw part after part at a TV that was "surged" and still end up with an old TV. These things are wired in a big loop on the primary that includes lots of $20-70 parts and a lightning hit will take out most of them. If it also got into the tuner side, getting it to light up is only the start of your misery.
It is no accident that there isn't a TV repair shop in every strip mall these days.
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote in

It is digital capable. It's a pretty decent TV. I doubt that there's heavy damage, since the woman I got it from didn't say anything about lightning, and all the fuses and fusible links are good. I also took the high voltage tripler out of circuit and the rest of the TV seemed to power up ok.
Like I said before, I'm not going to put a lot of money into this. That's why I'm asking for troubleshooting help.
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note that a neon ac tester will light up in the presence of a working flyback. but don't play with one just yet, read up on your troubleshooting questions, please see: http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/tvfaq.htm which is from: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_Repair.html
George Jetson wrote:

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put finger to keyboard and composed:

The HR Diemen HR8720 appears to be an equivalent: http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/index.php?command=viewProduct&ids57
FBT wiring diagram with voltages:
http://www.hrdiemen.es/products/index.php?command=viewSchema&filename=./img/esquemas/HR8720.gif
- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one \'i\' from my address when replying by email.

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It means the crowbar circuit is working as it is suppose to. Most likely the horizontal output transistor or output is shorted.
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snipped-for-privacy@mucks.net wrote in

Could you explain this? Thanks.
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wrote:

Proof by assertion? You haven't convinced me.
Do you know that the TV can kill you after it is off, after it is unplugged, for days afterwards or maybe even weeks if the discharge device is bad?
Do you know how to discharge the picture tube after the set is off, without touching it electrically?
Even I don't know if the part that precedes the flyback is dangerous. I just never touch it.
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wrote:

If he had any high voltage we wouldn't be having this conversation.
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Then by all means feel free to NOT offer any advice.
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wrote:

I do feel free not to offer any advice, and I also feel free to offer it.
If you are inclined to email me for some reason, remove NOPSAM :-)
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My point is that if you're not convinced of my knowledge of proper safety precautions, then don't offer any troubleshooting advice.
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wrote:

I don't recall you ever mentioning that you have an isolation transformer.
CWM
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You're correct. I didn't. In fact, I don't think I mentioned ANY specific safety precautions.
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So, what would lead anyone to believe you know what you are doing? The simple statement that, "I know what I'm doing?
CWM
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Actually, I think there are three types of people contributing to this thread. One, people who believe that I know what I'm doing well enough to follow simple instructions and not kill myself. Two, people who don't care if I know what I'm doing well enough to follow simple instructions and not kill myself, but contribute information anyway. And three, people who withhold information until I can somehow prove that I know what I'm doing well enough to follow simple instructions and not kill myself.
If you fall into one of the first two catagories, then I appreciate any information you can give. If you fall into the last catagory, then feel free to ignore this thread.
I'm not trying to be an asshole. But I'm certainly not going to provide a resume to anyone who thinks I need to prove my worthiness to receive information.
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wrote:

If you are not "trying" to be an asshole, then I guess it comes naturally, and without effort for you. People who have experience working on televisions have an awareness of how how dangerous they are for the smug amateur handyman who thinks he knows all the answers when he doesn't even know what questions to ask. Those who want to make sure you are not one of "those", are merely being responsible and showing concern for your welfare. They are trying to help you without getting you injured or killed. It's not about you or your worthiness. It's about them being responsible and caring.
CWM
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Really, I'm not. I just think that my safety is solely MY responsibility, and if I'm comfortable with my level of knowledge in this area, then anyone who wishes to help me should accept that I am.

You speak as if there are numerous people who are concerned about my level of expertise in TV repair, and I'm writing replies bashing them all. Actually, my original response was to one particular person, mm. Several people asked about my experience, and I politely answered. Several people gave me safety advice, which I gladly accepted. A number of people just accepted that I knew enough to work on TV's and offered troubleshooting advice. As a matter of fact, YOU were the second person to give me advice, with no thought as to my qualifications. By the way, thanks for the advice.
On the other hand, mm flatly called me a liar, and then proceeded to quiz me with VERY basic TV troubleshooting questions, implying that he wouldn't answer any questions unless I passed the test. Even though I was VERY insulted, I just told him that he didn't have to offer any advice if he didn't think I was qualified to apply it.
That's when you stepped in. Yes, I realize everyone can read my replies, but that doesn't mean those replies are directed to everyone. I was specifically replying to mm, not you, or anyone else. So if I said something to offend you specifically, I apologize. But if you're offended by what I said to mm, please keep it to yourself. It's none of your business.
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wrote:

I don't have any idea what's on TV tonight, but I am thinking you are going to miss it. <G>
CWM
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4ax.com:

Maybe, but not for lack of a working TV. I have three.
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George Jetson wrote:

One of the more common (totally dead) failures I see is a cracked circuit board which interrupts some of the circuit traces. This is common in the area of the flyback due to its weight. If the set is dropped or otherwise subjected to sufficient G-forces the weight of the flyback causes enough board flex to crack it. Sometimes these are easy to see, sometimes finding all of them can be a real tough nut.
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