Use cove base cement to apply. Outside corners are problematic,
so they make outside corners - this may be the simplest solution.
They can be installed through the corner, but will require back
skiving to get a clean corner. Hot melt glue will give nice sharp
outside corners - use it a few inches each side of the turn.
Inside corners can be back skived with a notch in the toe to
continue through. They can be cut, but require care or the wall
will show in the joint. Pros tend to base through the corners.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
Good info, sorry for the belated thanks.
The big problem of the former volunteer was getting it to stick to the
wall. We bought whatever they call the standard adhesive, probably
"rubber base molding adhesive" (big caulk-like tube that fits a gun
with several nozzles) which I don't think is labeled as "cement", so
perhaps that is the issue.
Looks like it's going to fall to me and I'm not going to be able to
avoid the task.
I watched the guy attempt to install it and could detect no fault with
what might be considered his basic "technique".
I mean, the wall was clean, recently painted. The base is new. He
applied what I considered as a former tilesetter sufficient adhesive
and pressed and J-rollered the snot out of it, stepped back and we
watched it slowly separate from the wall and fall on the floor.
The process seems to must be fairly straightforward, but perhaps not.
I guess I might try the hot glue along near the entire top edge but
I'm not wrestling with it all freaking day getting nowhere like that
poor bastard did.
But the question remains:
With all the hassle you are going through, and the fact that it
doesn't (IMHO & other's) look all that great, why not go with stained
or painted wood?
I content that it would be easier to use wood than rubber anyway,
especially if it's painted. Caulk can hide a multitude of seam sins.
My parents just had vinyl installed in their kitchen. There was carpet
before, including on the toe kicks under the cabinets. The installers
put rubber under the cabinets and I put wood on the walls.
I'll just say that it's a good thing it's dark under the cabinets.
My bad. x2. In haste I guess I assumed everyone was familiar and
sufficiently fascinated by my previous "Adventures in (commercial)
drywall" post or would deduce from the material that this is a
commercial application and so failed to mention that in this thread.
In no other than numerical order:
1. Cost, I guess. I haven't a clue what they paid for this petroleum-
based stuff but buying some 3/4-way decent 1x3 dropped my jaw and it
wasn't my money.
2. It matches what remains of the few walls I didn't move.
3. That's the spec.of the owners to whom I am deeply indebted and who
are paying me well above what my work is worth.
Otherwise, I'd send them to Labor Ready.
The bright side is I own so many pine trees that including them among
my assets as dimensional lumber seems likely to allow me to leverage a
few ocean view homes on Diamond Head to flip.
Yeah, we tried that, some, but we don't have nearly enough stuff
around to do that and this stuff seems to be overly influenced by
gravity, or something about the wall is repelling it. It seems
extraordinarily determined to form gaps.
It seems to me it just cannot be so labor intensive. I'm sure I'm
missing something somewhere... probably something obvious and simple
that is not included in any reference I've been able to find.
I didn't notice any evidence of hot glue on what was removed, but I'm
going to examine it better.
I'm going to try laying it out on the floor for awhile to eliminate
any effect of being coiled in a box for who knows how long.
If that fails I guess I'll try the hot glue and/or changing adhesive.
gpsman, I've not ever had problems installing other than working
bullnose corners, or any corner that did not use outside corner
pieces. I own a roller, but seldom use it. I use the quart tubes
from the commercial supply house where I get the base and other
floor tools and adhesives. By choice, I prefer Henry's brand, but
others are fine. I've not ever cleaned or prepped fresh base out
of the box. I do like to use a spreader tip if I'm doing much of
it for the speed of application. Avoid getting the adhesive too
high on the base as it can ooze out the top and require clean up.
A damp rag for clean up and to wipe the base to the wall is
normally all that is needed. The toe of the cove base rests on
the floor. The adhesive remains soft with a long open time,
though I only apply one strip at a time. I just can't envision
the problem unless the adhesive was old or some off brand junk.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
Nobody else said it, so I will- does the base molding need to be wiped
down with something first, to get the manufacturing lube off of it so
glue will stick to it? Last time I painted a plastic car bumper cover, I
had to wipe it down with a degreasing solvent- some sort of 'liquid
sandpaper' stuff- for the paint to get a bite. New extruded plastic
oozes and outgasses- I suspect the surface is just too slick or greasy
for the glue. If you are afraid solvent will turn the base molding to
goo, maybe scuffing the back up with a industrial scotchbrite pad (the
brown kind, not the green kind like for kitchens) would give a better bite.
Of course, I could be full of crap, never having worked with plastic
base before. I'll need to if I ever fix up the main bathroom here,
though, so I am interested in whatever solution you come up with.
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