Replacing Main supply gate valve

[Dave Morrison]

A couple of tips, wrap the body of the valve with a wet rag, and use a hot torch. Get in heat it up fast and get out. Mapp gas in a Turbo torch is my favorite. Dave

[djay]

Relplacing the gate valve with a ball valve. The gate handle is broken. The ball valve is brass with sweat fittings. I will be replacing the pressure regulator while I'm at it because the house is 20 years old. Anyway, I noticed that the Ball Valve has, what seems to be, some plastic lining around the ball valve. Is there a risk of this lining melting when I apply the torch? Is there any procedure I need to be aware of to keep it from melting? Am I just paranoid? Guy at the plumbing store says that it takes a lot to melt them and I shouldn't have a problem. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

DJay

[Barrie Hiern]

suggestions?

[SQLit]

You do not mention the size. 1 inch is a lot harder than 1/2 inch to sweat. What I do is use a threaded connector soldered to a length of pipe before it is connected to the valve. Threads covered in Teflon tape and pipe dope. Tighten as needed. If I have to, I will use a union to keep the heat away from the valve.

[Ed]

"djay" wrote

If your water is supplied by the town or city you live in those items may belong to them and can be replaced by them free of charge. Call and check with them.

[djay]

It's 3/4 inch hardware. The 3/4 inch ball valve has sweat connectors. I think Are you saying that you solder the other end of the pipe (not on the valve side) to whatever it will be connected to before you sweat the ball valve side(s)? Is this for heat sink reasons? To get the heat away from the ball valve as soon as possible?

Thanks,

DJay

[djay]

Good advice. I don't have a Mapp gas torch.... I'll see my neighbor! :~)

[jimmy]