Questions: Bosch 1132VSR, Makita DA3000R

I'm in the market for one of these or any other small right-angle drill.
Bosch 1132VSR: Is the on-off switch a slide type switch? Does the switch turn off when you let go or do you have to pull it back? (you could really get jammed up if it is not a momentary on switch) Is there a second handle or a threaded hole to add one? (doesn't look like it from the picture)
Makita DA3000R: Did Makita add the hole for the handle ot take it away? (the picture on Amazon doesn't have it but the one at Tyler does) (Amazon.com product link shortened) http://www.tylertool.com/makda338vsra.html (different model number at Tyler DA3010F)
Dewalt 960: Is this a 'real' DeWalt tool or the crappy 18V drill I bought at Lowes for $99
Others: I can't use the Milwaukee or other 1/2 r-angle drills because I only have 7" to work in recommendations?
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Get a right angle adapter, they usually cost around $40.
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"Limp Arbor" wrote

Which Milwaukee? If the Milwaukee "close quarter" is too big, then the Makita and Bosch you mention, which are all almost identical in size, may be also.
http://www.tylertool.com/milwaukee55.html
I own the above and use it when installing slides in kitchen cabinets and other tight spots.
If it helps, the head of the drill, from the top to the mouth of the chuck, is a bit less than 3 3/4".
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"Swingman" showed us a picture of his drill

Tell us about it. How powerful is it? I presume it is only for small jobs.
Does that monsterous trigger ever go off before you want it to?
How is it anglewise in terms of reaching back into a cabinet and using it?
Does the cord get in the way?
Etc, etc!!
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"Lee Michaels" wrote in message

More power than a cordless ... I've never come even close to bogging it down, if that's what you mean.

Never been a problem ...the trigger/paddle is a variable speed control, so the more you squeeze down, the faster it goes.

Works like you'd expect it too ... IOW, it does what I bought it for. :)
That said, if you put a 8" drill bit on it, expect that will need more clearance. ;)

Never been a problem with the "close quarter" part, by design.

It's like any other" specialty" tool ... when you really need it, it saves a lot of cussing/blue air, other than that, you may forget you have it.
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this milwaukee is too big http://www.mytoolstore.com/milwauke/3107-6.html A little over 5"

Looks like a nice tool but I am drilling down and will backing up against the subfloor so the angle of the tool and cord placement will be a problem. If I did a lot of cabinetry work I would definitley own one.
This might be a possibility. I e-mailed Milwaukee to get the specs http://www.tools-plus.com/milwaukee-1680-21.html but it doesn't look much smaller than the 3107
I think I can get by with the Makita or Bosch 3/8 because I only need to drill 1/2 holes into cinder block. I did a test hole in the garage and the 1/2" bit went in fairly easily with a non-hammer drill and a new bit. The DW 18V cordless RA might also work but it has no side handle to help me pull it down
Rental is out because the places I chack all have the bigger Milwaukee or the gargantuan Hilti
As an aside why don't any of the manufacturers post the size of these drills? For a regular dril I could see it is not that important, but for a R-angle drill wouldn't the chuck tip to end of tool be something a potential buyer would want to know? I know I want to know.
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Limp Arbor wrote:

great! It's a cheap fix.
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The paddle slides from a lock position to a press in position, the more you press the faster it goes, release it and it returns to the lock position. On the back end is a speed dial that controls the maximum speed. On the top is the forward/reverse switch.

There is no place to add a handle however the body is at 90 degrees to the drill shank and is long enough that it has been no problem holding on to it.
It worked for me in a very difficult location, trying to feed some wires above the basement wall, between two close joists and drilling up behind the drywall, while trying to reach over a cabinet installed on the wall flush with the ceiling with very little room to see what I was doing.

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My Makita DA3000R does not have the hole for a handle but it's about ten years old so I'm inclined to believe that the model from Tyler is a newer edition.
Max
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They are different and surprisingly they list 2 5/8" as the head height for the 3010, but no spec for the 3000 http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=product_det&tag=DA3010F
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Amazon has the 3010 also and of course cheaper than anywhere else (I hope) and free shipping. I just ordered it for $171.
Now I need some 1/2" reduced shank Masonry bits...
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