pulling a tree straight

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Joseph Meehan wrote:

100% support for this!
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I don't believe you will have success moving the 3" part without digging out the root ball. You can go higher up (maybe at 2 inches) and bend that a bit. If you try it, I wouldn't do more than 1 quarter inch at a time. Stake it, bend it a bit, give it a few months for the stress to work out, then bend it again.
Put a picture online somewhere and post a link.
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I vote for starting with a new planting. Clip a few small budding sprigs off and dip the ends in Root Tone. Then stick each one in a flower pot with some sterile soil in it and put a large clear jar over each sprig until summer comes. Moisten the soil occasionally. If all goes well the sprigs will grow some roots. Keep them growing in the flower pots until the roots are fairly developed and can handle transplanting. Eventually you can transplant them into the ground and fertilize them from time to time. With good maintenance they will grow better than the mother.
Shifting the tree like you plan will not be to your satisfaction and may cause long term damage. It does sound pretty comical though so if you continue with attempting to move the tree, have a neighbor video tape it and post it on YouTube.
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http://www.33rdderryscouts.com/Resources/centre/Bridgebuilding.pdf
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Nate Nagel wrote:

I doubt you'll be able to straighten it without digging out one side; however, you should be able to bend it easily enough and - given time - you should be able to get the part above your bending point straight.
If you want to bend it, this is what I would do...
1. Get some 1/2" dacron rope. Not nylon, not hemp, not the floating garbage, DACRON.
2. Dig an angled, 4' deep hole as far away as the tree as possible and set an 8' 4x4 in it at a 45 degree angle leaning away from the tree. Cut a notch/groove around the top of the 4x4 maybe 3" from the end.
3. Take a couple of turns of the 1/2" line around the 4x4 in the notch. Make them loose so that when you tie the ends you have loops about 8" in diameter that hang
4. Make similar loops around the tree trunk as high up as possible and make more of them...enough so that when they are pushed together they cover 6-8" of the trunk so that the stress that will be applied is spread over a larger area and does no or less injury to the tree..
5. Tie one end of a long length of the 1/2" line to one of the loops - either those on the tree or those on the post, doesn't matter.
6. Now run your 1/2" line thru the other loops and back. Do it 3-4 times
7. You now have a rudimentary block and tackle with tons of mechanical leverage...start hauling on the bitter end. The tree WILL bend. Since there are no sheaves, there will be a lot of friction. That is good as it enables you to pull on something other than the bitter end and have things stay put while you then pull out the bitter end. If you happen to have some blocks, NP in using them, this way saves $$ if you don't have.
8. Once you have bent the trunk as much as possible or practicable, tie off the bitter end to the block & tackle line parts.
9. Take some smaller line - 1/4" nylon would be good - and use it to whip together the loops left in #3 & #4 above starting at the part closest to your rudimentary block and tackle. As you pull this line taut you are closing the loops and that will bend the trunk a bit more. You may not be able to totally "whip" the loops which is OK, do as much as possible and tie off the end of the whipping line.
10. After a month or two, repeat the above and see if you can bend the trunk a bit more; maybe yes, maybe no...the trunk needs to grow a bit to help hold it in the bent shape.
You said there were two trunks - don't try to bend both with one setup, do them individually.
If you can't bend it as above, let me know and I'll tell you how to rig a Spanish burton (purchase on purchase) :)
--

dadiOH
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I used a fence Tee post tring to train a redbud sapling. I left it on for over two years and as soon as I released it the little redbud went right back to where it wanted to go. I think they have a mind of their own. RM~
PS, I did have a tee post driver, would hate to have to put one in with a hammer. Good luck.
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I have no advice at all, but had to look up what a 'SWMBO' was! :) Maybe it's an American thing, but I've never heard of it here in Canada before. Good one!
KD
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In article

Screw in a ground anchor at an angle so the cable pulls STRAIGHT in line with the anchor. Look at how the phone co puts guy wires on their poles.
Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/
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overall putting tension on the tree is a bad idea.
imagine people walking by, tension device perhaps messed with earlier by kids snaps, or just breaks for unknown reasons.
major lawsuit:(
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Yeah, just imagine! Sheesh!!! :(
It isn't that good of an idea simply because it probably won't work with very satisfactory results and will take a lot of time by which he could have a new planting reach nearly the same size. But worry over liability would be _way_ down the list.
--
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perhaps liability would be down your list.
but your homeowners insurance might not cover intential creation of such a hazard.
people sue for anything.
would you want a 5 or 10 year case dragging thru the courts?
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

The problem is you're again making mountains out of nothing but conjecture... :(
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