Problem with clothes dryer not getting hot enough: How do you test a sensor?

Page 1 of 3  
Got a problem with a clothes dryer not working. It leaves clothes wetter w hen it is finished than when it started! That is because it doesnt seem to get hot enough and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the no rmal course of drying.
There is a sensor which I assume tells the element how hot to get and the element itself. The sensor usually dies in this machine and I Have had to r eplace a few of them. I check the wires and when they start to look burned, a replacement sensor is needed. When I get the sensor out, one terminal us ually looks completely burned.
However in the present case, I ordered a new sensor and then found that the one in there LOOKS perfectly OK. The wires look burned but that seems to b e because they burned on some last replacement occasion. When I pulled the actual wires off, the terminals look OK and the sensor looks OK.
How can I check the sensor to see if it is really OK or whether the sensor has now failed in some other way? Alternatively how can I check the termin als of the element itself to see if it that part which needs replacement?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

First, there's no way a dryer leaves clothes wetter than when they started unless you have a water source feeding into the dryer.
You said "...and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the normal course of drying." Really? From where?
That said, very often the type of problem you described is caused by a blockage in the exhaust ducts, either internal to the dryer or the exhaust hose and/or vent.
Cleaning the lint trip every time is a great idea, but it doesn't prevent lint from building up in other places. I would check the outside vent for buildup and the exhaust hose itself. If that doesn't help, you'll have to get to the innards and clean out the ductwork within the dryer itself.
BTDT...Often.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks for the suggestion but we live in a small apartment and needed a ductless dryer. It doesn't vent to the outside and besides the water outlet (I have checked that one), there aren't any filters to clean out.
I never understood why it meeds to feed water into the dryer while it is drying but it does. There is a water input for that purpose.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 03/21/2013 05:11 PM, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote:

> It leaves clothes wetter when it is finished than when it started!
It sounds like you have your washer and your dryer confused.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 3/21/13 7:33 PM, Ctrl-Alt-Delete > wrote:

Is it possibly a w/d combo "all in one" unit ??
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

er when it is finished than when it started!  That is because it doesnt s eem to get hot enough and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the normal course of drying.

 element itself. The sensor usually dies in this machine and I Have had to replace a few of them. I check the wires and when they start to look bur ned, a replacement sensor is needed. When I get the sensor out, one termina l usually looks completely burned.

he one in there LOOKS perfectly OK. The wires look burned but that seems to be because they burned on some last replacement occasion. When I pulled th e actual wires off, the terminals look OK and the sensor looks OK.

nsor has now failed in some other way? Alternatively how can I check the te rminals of the element itself to see if it that part which needs replacemen t?
replace the connectors to the sensor, if they looked burned they are bad......
they get high resistance and dont work reliably, they may heat up, the burned look and interfer with sensing, or even ruin the new heater.
replace the connector and at least a few inches of the wiring, which will mlikely look wierd from being overheated,..
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Yes, it is a w/d combination unit but the washer bit works properly. The p oint is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which look burne d.
I thought that the sensor had gone and spent a large amount of money on a n ew sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I discovered that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering whether it is sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it is the heater element which has gone bad.
So I was wondering how to test each (or whether something else is bad on th is unit)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

he point is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which look b urned.

new sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I discovere d that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering whether it i s sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it is the heat er element which has gone bad.

this unit)
http://www.howtomendit.com/search.php
is a appliance repair group, provide the name and model number of your unit
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Actually I am not really sure how useful that site actually is
I did find a reference to this question being asked about an earlier model about seven years ago. It then waited two years for someone else to answer with a report of a similar problem.
No solutions despite this unit being in widespread use on both sides of the Atlantic in various forms.
I could have told them to check the wires going to the sensor myself!! It would probably have fixed one of the two problem reports or both of them. And the manufacturer lists it as a commonly replaced part (along with the element, (big surprise)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 3/21/13 10:14 PM, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote:

point is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which look burned.

sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I discovered that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering whether it is sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it is the heater element which has gone bad.

Since it is a combo w/d, and if the clothes are really wetter after a dry cycle, I would suspect that there is a leak in the internal water system. And the heat element can't overcome the leaked water.
Likely the water control valve. As a experiment, can you close an External input water valve before a dry cycle starts ??
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thursday, March 21, 2013 10:42:31 PM UTC-4, Retired wrote:

he point is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which look b urned.

a new sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I discove red that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering whether it is sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it is the he ater element which has gone bad.

n this unit)

Yes, I can close the water input valve but the unit then wont start.
Tried the site you mentioned but it doesnt list any of the names this unit goes under: Euro-Pro, M alber, etc. I think it was probably made by Indesit but dont think there is an Indesit model number!
The unit looks like a gigantic number of other units by lots of manufacture rs but I suspect that one company makes the external casings for all these machines in Italy and sells them on, So you cant easily identify it. That was wny I was trying to look at how to test components.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

 The point is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which lo ok burned.

on a new sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I disco vered that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering whether it is sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it is the heater element which has gone bad.

on this unit)

That's interesting. A combined washer/dryer unit won't do a dry cycle without water? That's one of the big drawbacks to these combined units. More complex, easier for one little thing to screw up the whole works. I think Retired's idea that water may be leaking in is an interesting one, IF it's really true that the clothes are coming out wetter than when they went in. Water being added is the only way that's possible. On the other hand, if that's what's happening due to a leaking valve, then one would think it would continue with the unit off and flood the place. I guess it's possible something is screwed up that tells the valve to open at times when the unit is active.
How about if the water is turned on when it's started and then turned off once it starts drying? Maybe it checks for water at startup and doesn't care after....
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

The point is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which look burned.

a new sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I discovered that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering whether it is sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it is the heater element which has gone bad.

this unit)

"Retired," that's an excellent idea for a test to determine if there's a leak within the system. By the OP's description this problem is not like previous problems because the sensor does not appear to be burned as it has in the past.
The OP can test the sensor if she has a thermometer and a meter that can test for continuity. The sensor is designed to cut out (stops passing electrical current) when a certain temperature, usually stamped on the part itself, is exceeded. If this unit has failed in the "open" state then the dryer's heating element will never kick in.
Another sensor prone to problems is the humidity sensor. That's a little harder to test. You can try placing completely dry clothes in the dryer and then turning on the dryer. If the sensor is OK it should run for a few moments and then shut down right away.
I'd try "Retired's" suggestion of shutting off the water supply to make sure that there's no leak that wetting the clothes as the dryer is trying to dry them.
If you think the heating element has failed, you can bypass the thermostatic control sensor with a small jumper cable and run the dryer for a few minutes. If it fails to heat up at all, a bad heating element could be a distinct possibility. You can bypass the humidstat the same way. Remember to remove the jumper when you've finished the test so you don't burn the house down!
--
Bobby G.



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
There are two things you should check right away:
1. The problem could be that the high temperature thermostat is gone. Dryers have TWO thermostats; a 165 deg. F (typically) thermostat that's used for both the "Whites & Colours" and "Permanent Press" dry cycles and a 145 deg. F (typically) thermostat that's only used for the "Delicates" dry cycle.
Try running the dryer on the Delicates dry cycle and see if it gets quite warm, or at least warm enough to dry clothes. If so, then the problem is a shot high temperature thermostat, and you need to replace it.
2. Electric dryers are 240 volt appliances... ..which means they will have TWO 30 amp fuses or circuit breakers in the electrical panel providing power to the dryer. Check that both fuses or circuit breakers are good/not tripped. If one fuse burns out or one breaker trips, the dryer motor can still run properly (because it works on 120 volts) and the heating element will get warm to the touch, but not red hot, and it needs to be red hot to heat the air being drawn through the dryer by the blower up to 145 or 165 degrees.
If the fuses or circuit breakers haven't blown/tripped and the dryer doesn't heat on either thermostat, then I'd suspect the heating element.
Some dryers have a high limit safety switch that needs to be replaced if the dryer overheats. In that case, you need to find the reason why the dryer overheated and fix that problem, and then also replace the high limit safety switch.
--
nestork


Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

It would be nice to be able to determine how much current the unit is drawing. Not sure how to do that short of isolating a service wire and using a tong meter. I've not seen a Kill-o-watt meter that runs on 240VAC. If the washing machine component is leaking into the dryer, even if the heating element activates, there won't be much drying getting done. It may be possible to detect a slight rise in temperature, though.
Still, I'd probably want to test the unit watching an ammeter to see if the element was indeed cycling on and off. Sometimes the problem can be short-cycling where the heating element is being activated, but for some reason is not reaching operating temperature. There is probably another thermal shutoff device located right on the heater element assembly that may have failed but I've never serviced a combo unit and this may be foreign made, as well, so who knows?

Good point. Put that under yet another reason why the element may not be getting hot enough.

DerbyDad zeroed in on the number one cause of heating element trouble in my experience - lint. I would start with a thorough blowout/cleanout of the unit and the dryer vent before even looking at other issues.
Last time this happened to a friend (wet clothes) the dryer vent had become home to a bunch of birds - house wrens, IIRC. I was amazed at how much nesting material they had brought into the vent pipe. This happened even with a bird flap on the exterior vent. They learned how to pop it open in very short order and it probably helped keep them safe by keeping larger predators out.
The symptom of that fiasco was that the dryer vent pipe starting dripping condensate inside the house at the point of the bird blockage. Oddly enough, the water traveled quite a distance from the leak point along the ceiling tiles and it didn't appear until a number of hours after the dryer was used.
--
Bobby G.



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 16:11:44 -0700 (PDT), Amanda Ripanykhazova

It may not be relevant to your problem, but when my clothes didn't dry it was because the fan belt had broken and air wasn't circulating through the wet clothes.
Ross
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 16:11:44 -0700 (PDT), Amanda Ripanykhazova
with clothes dryer not getting hot enough: How do you test a sensor?:

it is finished than when it started! That is because it doesnt seem to get hot enough and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the normal course of drying.
At first I thought this was a pretty lame troll; that no one would be fool enough to fall for it. But then I see that several fools here did indeed go for it; so I guess I was wrong.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Re Problem

when it is finished than when it started! That is because it doesnt seem to get hot enough and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the normal course of drying.

About a number of things. Checking Google doesn't reveal the profile of a typical troll:
http://www.google.com/search?q=Amanda+Ripanykhazova
The added water could indeed be a failure of a combination washer/dryer unit, as one of the posters you've labeled a "fool" correctly deduced.
So tell us, what leads you to believe you've been trolled? At least, if this IS a troll, it's on topic, unlike so many other trolls here, and could help someone in the future as well as the person asking the question. For a *real* troll, check out the doghouse thread or most anything posted by Dufas, the "entertainment troll" or Harry, the Brit that hates America.
--
Bobby G.



Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 3/22/2013 6:19 AM, Robert Booby Green wrote:

Of course we can't leave out the mouthpiece of the P.L.L.C.F. Troll, Booby Green. Write us a novella Booby, the codswallop you spew will obfuscate something. ^_^
TDD
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Dufas, the self-confessed "I do it for entertainment" troll said:

No, no, no, Dufas, you're *already* confused. YOU are the one that confessed to being a troll for entertainment purposes, an "admission against interest" that will certainly come to haunt you. I am a troll HUNTER. You'd better review your confession, troll, because you're wrong again, right out of the starting gate. Wrong-Way Dufas strikes again!
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/msg/daf8c371a79c3808
I've not started an OT or political post in AHR for at least 5 years. But I do respond to lying slimeball trolls who try, like terrorists, to disrupt the normal flow of things to get their political message (usually lies) across. Unlike you, who feeds nearly every troll that visits AHR, I usually only respond to trolls if they are members of the group abusing their fellow posters. That certainly sounds like a certain "entertainment troll" I know. Perhaps the real meaning of your acronym P.L.L.C.F. is about you:
Puerile Loser Likes Creating Flames
You're infantile/puerile because you like to aggravate people and disrupt adult conversations. You can't exercise any self control and repeatedly blame others for your own errors. You're a loser that lost your job to a less-qualified person (so you say - more likely you were dismissed for the same sort of anti-social behavior you engage in here). Finally, you confessed to being a troll that likes to make so much trouble that he hopes it gives people aneurysms. In other words, a malicious and hateful little person who gets his kicks stirring up trouble and wishing ill on people.
That's charming. You try to hide behind "I'm just joking BS" and then you hope your trolling causes a potential fatal injury to someone. Prepare to see a very ugly portrait of you painted with the many hateful thoughts you've expressed like that from the archive. You ask us to believe what a nice guy you are while expressing a hope your infantile behavior kills someone. That's almost 100% pure hypocrisy and it's *very* malicious, despite your protestations to the contrary.
Just like Chris did when he called HeyBub a Nazi, you stepped hard on your wang and crossed the line with that hateful remark. Because you're poorly socialized I know I won't get any sort of apology for that death wish from you. In fact I am counting on it.

Booby? That's the *best* you've got? What are you, eight years old? You can't even do a good job of making up a name. I can't imagine being such a failure in life that I had to get my jollies trolling the newsgroups with your (patented) "Constant Commiecrat Crap." If you need entertainment, go bowling and not trolling.
Let's see. You're a senior citizen. You're a self-confessed 'entertainment' troll. You live in Alabama. Hmmm.
I dub thee: Trolio Ol'bama Man. The Ol' guy from 'Bama who abuses and trolls his fellow newsgroupers for his own "entertainment."
So Trolio, let's get to the "entertaining" part as I demonstrate to your fellow newsgroupers how you're trying to play them. People don't like being played. If you had some sort of functioning social radar, you might be detecting that people are getting tired of your race-baiting antics.
A number of people have asked you not to act like a baby terrorist with your OT rants. Your response was to tell us what a great guy you are because you work through the pain. What self-serving hogwash. You don't even understand how old and tired (like you?) your "Fig Pucker" responses are when you've read them a dozen times. You're like a Pavlovian dog. Someone writes "Test" in the header and you can count on old Trolio Ol'bama/Dufas to reply. In fact we can count on you to respond to any troll or spammer that posts here to clog up the newgroup even more than it already is.
You hate the "race card" but boy do you know how to play the "pity me" card. Now *that's* low self-esteem. That swill you gave Dan to excuse your trolling was pathetic. "I twy so hard to contwol myself!" But you don't do a very good job because your Commiecrat flame-bait just oozes out of you like pus from an infected wound no matter how hard you say you "twy."

I will, Trolio, because I know you'll read every word at least twice and your bad behavior and wrong-headed views of the world give me plenty of subject matter. Besides, you're a narcissist and so self-centered you couldn't *possibly* skip over anything anyone writes about you, good or bad. You misbehave deliberately to get attention, and now you're getting it. But I don't think it's quite the attention you wanted. This is going to be "entertaining" Dufas because you're already in waaaay over you head. I also know from watching your behavior in the past that you'll do yourself in because of your lack of self-control.
What was it that Kurt said about picking fights with people who buy ink by the barrels? I used to write for a living and type 110wpm so I can deal with you and your BFF troll buddies with one hand behind my back. You're just not careful enough or good enough, Trolio. More importantly you've left a goldmine of ammunition in the form of your endless whines and confessions in the Google archive.
Playing a few rounds of "Dufas, This Is Your Life" will prove to be very entertaining because you've said some pretty self-damaging things, like your confession that you're a troll. Maybe there is *one* thing you finally got right! You ARE a troll. A common, garden variety, living under a rock with toads, troll. And you ADMITTED IT, dummy! What a maroon! No one cares *why* you act like an idiot and post flame-bait except you. Another socialization failure.
The only way out now is a retraction. Just like men's room footsie-playing gay Republican Congressman Larry Craig tried to pull. Do you have a wide-stance defense for your trolling like he did?

Oooh, Trolio knows some BIG words. I hope you like sucking down "codswallop" in the form of your own ill-considered words used against you. Make sure you're up to this contest because I, unlike you, would not wish to make you mad enough to pop a blood vessel. I do hope to make you mad enough to get you to stop trolling AHR with your Commiecrat crap. If that doesn't occur, at least I can expose you for the lying, race-baiting, disruptive, self-centered attention hound that you are and make sure that every post you make is replied to with the URL to your confession and a warning that you're a troll.
Sadly the war would be very asymmetrical because you're as much of a failure as a sock puppet and a troll as you seem to have been in other aspects of your life. Most smart people I know didn't have to work like a dog when they were old or sick. Some how, oddly enough, you seem to be proud that you weren't smart enough to plan for a future where you might be disabled or old. That's why you can't win a battle of wits. You just don't know when you're making a total fool of yourself (that would be perpetually, or so it seems).
There are some very smart and sharp conservatives here that must really squirm when they read the flame-bait stuff you post. They have to realize that you're not very bright and that your ill-informed posts only damage the true conservative cause. They know that trolls like you actually undermine their message when it's clear they don't even understand who runs the Library of Congress (hint: NOT Obama).
Those smart conservatives mostly seem to have been smart enough to have planned for their future. So what happened to you? Oh, I remember. The Bad Affirmative Action Man came and just *ruined* your life and you couldn't recover no matter how hard you tried. You've been whining and complaining about it ever since. You're *always* crying the blues, Trolio, about how hard life is and how you have to work like a dog even though you're so sick. I'd be embarrased to make such a pitiful and naked plea for attention and special consideration - I thought you said you hated that? You've got your own Affirmative Action program going right here in AHR! For you! How's that for irony?
Just remember, Ol'bama Man, poor life planning on your part doesn't constitute an emergency for the rest of us or give you the right to troll the group to entertain yourself. Dan E. said it much more succinctly:
No one on the internet caused your problems and putting up with trolls is not fun for the rest of us.
It seems you really want to tango so let's make sure you're medically up to the war you're determined to start, Trolio. I don't want to have to deal with you coming to the newsgroup and whining and crying that all the things I said about you made you fall off a ladder or get pneumonia. You've already played the crybaby "Wah, waahh!!! I'm sick, pity me" card to excuse your poor behavior (trolling), so it's just natural I'd want to doublecheck your health before I spanked your virtual bare ass like the juvenile, self-confessed troll that you are:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.home.repair/msg/daf8c371a79c3808
So, sit down on the examining table, wittle boy, take this doll and point to where the Affirmative Action Bad Man hurt you.
Now let's have some fun, Mr. Trolio Ol'bama!
--
Bobby G.




Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.