Power for tablesaw in shop?

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wrote:

And virtual racetrack.
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113 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
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<...snipped...>

Hey, you left out the servant's quarters!
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Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
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is a luxury item, I don't think a simple shower stall (and water heater, if slop sink OP mentioned was going to be cold water only), is much of a stretch. Few people bother to run water and drain to the shop, especially in a seperate building, but OP metioned a half-bath, so adding a shower to that becomes trivial. Unless a woodshop is a just a display room (like a yuppie restaurant-grade gourmet kitchen that seldom actually gets used), you do tend to get dirty working in there.
aem sends....
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I would make sure that the feed is a dedicated outlet. Then you can change the voltage from 110 to 220 by just swapping out outlet an breaker. I would also go with 10 guage wire just in case you want to move up to a 5HP machine some day.
The one outlet that I had to "add" in my (20x25) shop after constrution was the 110 under the saw outfeed table (my saw is in the middle of the room). I now have a power strip there so I don alway have to plug in on the perimeter of the room.
-Steve

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snipped-for-privacy@vcoms.net wrote:

Go for the 220, I faced the same dilema but was very glad I went to 220. I also made an extension cord for the 220 because I roll my TS out onto my driveway on a good day. elieve me you won't be sorry on those thicker cuts.
Dave
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could be twice as long before the voltage drop across the extension would become a problem. FYI, I plug my saw into a 120 receptacle.
O well, the saw never gets more than 20 feet from the receptacle.
Jim
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Have a friend with a shop with 10 foot cieling he moves his tools around. shop is too small for whats in there:(
anyhow he has some retractable wind up extension cords mounted to cieling with strings to make access easy.
works well for him no chance of tripping on anything.......
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snipped-for-privacy@vcoms.net wrote:

If you're really considering alternatives and it's not too late (sounds like it probably is for anything sizable :( ), the _ideal_ solution is to run power (and air) in underfloor raceways to areas where equipment such as the TS, planer, etc., are to be. Overhead and wall receptacles plentifully scattered around strategically are also to be valued, of course.
I would also try to arrange for enclosure for stationary dust collection and air compressor for noise abatement in the shop itself.
If it were me, I'd replace the single double-wide door w/ two, as well. Being able to open only one is a major advantage imo.
Also concur w/ the shower if possible and would consider strongly a finishing room w/ ventilation and dust-free environment and explosion-proof electrics.
How far to go depends, of course, on budget and what one actually does/intends to do, but those are areas I'd throw out for consideration...
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snipped-for-privacy@vcoms.net wrote:

need is xx/2 wire. I put in 10/3 wire just in case I want a neutral for splitting off a 110V outlet. The /3 gives you that ability. The 10/ will give you enough amperage capacity for most high end hobby tools and most professional tools for that matter.
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