I'm trying to get an owners manual for an old Sears garage door opener (model 139.653000), but Sears doesn't seem to have any means for acquiring one. Any suggestions? I'm specifically interested in finding out how to recode the external touchpad. It seems to be coded manually by switching wires on a wire block on the inside wall from the touchpad.
-JasonW
i got a sears gar.door opener, mod. 139.66380, 1/3 hp.. about 20 yrs old or so... if you talking about the reciever on the wall that you push the buttons on to open if from inside the garage and matching the code numbers with the remote, let me know that is the kind i have.... hope this helps.. reply here is you need any more info from me as my email is no good.. over 200 spams per day due to email add. out on the newsgroups.....
Sounds very similar and about the right age. On the inside of the keypad are a bunch of colored wires, each with two letters and a number tagged on it. The block has a place for "First", "Second", "Third", "Fourth", and "Common", and a bunch of other holes that can accept wires. But after much messing with it, I couldn't get it to work consistently. If you have any directions, I'd sure appreciate it.
-JasonW
Jason
Sounds like you have an older "Domino Keypad" (brand name) which is black w/ white buttons and is a separate part from your Sears opener. Therefore a Sears manual would not help. Doing a search for "domino keypad" I found the instructions for the newer style but not for the type you have, but the programming is very basic.
I believe the common wire is white & marked & goes in the common block. You simply pick the numbered wires by the code you want to use & place them in order of the numbered blocks. Hence if you want code
2965, wire #2 goes in 1st block, w #9 2nd blk, w #6 3rd blk, & wire #5 in the 4th block. Certainly not rocket science but some thought they were as revolutionary as sliced bread when they were introduced.The wire going from the keypad inside the garage should be connected to the wire going to the opener w/ aliigator clips only & not connected securely. Therefore if someone took the keypad off of the wall the wires will disconnect & disable the keypad. Otherwise they could simply "read" your code & open the door.
You might want to get a new style keypad or get a new receiver & wireless keypad that doesn't have this security issue.
Doordoc
Thanks! I will give that a try. I do want to upgrade to a more modern and more secure model, but money limits that right now.
-JasonW
replying to JasonW, Gary wrote: Went to Sears Parts website in re: model 139.66380 referenced by Jim above. Was looking for a replacement remote. They could only offer a rolling-code converter for $70. Fortunately was able to get the remote working. Any other issues, I think, will mean buying a whole new opener...
There are not really that many types of GDO remotes. You just need to figure out which one you have.
I bet you could find something on Ebay or failing that, don't they have universal ones where you get new remotes and a new receiver and it hooks up via the door opener button circuit?
I don't remember all of the details but I had no problem getting extra remotes for my sears opener and a remote for the one I use as a "next" button on my MP3 player.
Basically you have a couple of frequencies and a different number of dip switches in the remote but if you match them up they work. There are a few sites that describe it a lot better and get you on the right track.
Update: part still has not shipped and searspartsdirect.com doesn't know the status. Thankfully, this water neutralizer is the last Sears product I still own. I will never buy another Sears product. Apparently a lot of other people feel the same way.
My experience is not unique
Sears models starting with 139, are made by Chamberlain.
I was not able to connect with
Fred
snipped-for-privacy@aol.com posted for all of us...
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