I just wanted to report what I ended up doing in case
anybody is interested.
I used a transmitter/receiver set I found at Lowe's. It was
$21.97, and the extra remote was about $17.00. So it's a
good bit cheaper than the Genie at Home Depot.
It's a HouseLink package, Model 318TR, and the extra remote
is Model 318T. You set a 9-bit code, with each bit set to
either +, -, or zero. I think that means you have one of
19,683 possible settings. This differs from the Genie setup
which changes the code after each use. More info at:
The receiver looks like a wall wort which you plug into
110VAC. Then there is a 15' wire pair coming out the side
of it that you connect to the old receiver's wire terminals.
When triggered, the receiver appears to close a relay so as
to short those two wires. I confirmed that with an
ohmmeter. So for this setup you have to keep the old
receiver in place so you can use its manual switch, or
install a new manual switch.
The nifty thing about this is that the Sears opener has a
110VAC "convenience" receptacle on the back of the main box,
intended for appliances or whatever, and right next to it
are the terminals for the wires going to the old receiver
and the external key switch. So I had no wiring to do.
Works quite nicely. Cheap. Hope it lasts a while.
Art Todesco says...
> I just replaced my transmitters/receiver with a Genie
> from Home Depot. It has rolling digital codes. It comes
> with a wall-wart transformer if you need it, but I
> powered mine directly from the 24 VAC from the opener
> itself. BTW, this is the 2nd full replacement since
> 1972. This time, the previous receiver got his by a
> lightening induced spike. I think it was about $50 for
> the receiver and 1 transmitter. The 2nd transmitter
> wasn't cheap, about $25 or so.
> Peabody wrote:
>> I have a 1972-vintage Sears garage door opener, model
>> 139.654000 which still works great. But the only
>> remote I have left is falling apart, and is no longer
>> dependable, particularly in very hot or very cold
>> The transmitter/receiver system is the old analog type
>> - no digital codes at all, just the specification of
>> "carrier frequency" and "modulation frequency", and the
>> receiver is powered by 24VAC provided from the main
>> chassis. In fact, it appears that the receiver
>> actuates the opener mechanism by at least partially
>> shorting out its own power supply temporarily.
>> I have been unable to find any direct replacements for
>> either the transmitter or the receiver. In fact, I
>> don't really see any total replacements for the
>> transmitter/receiver system that would operate using
>> the 24VAC power supply.
>> Does anybody have any suggestions for what to do? I'd
>> like to avoid having to replace the entire opener.