OT: Car Daytime Running Light Switch

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I want to install a switch to allow me the capability of turning on and off my daytime running lights on my car when needed. The vision I have is using two wires from each side of the where the fuse inserts and connecting them to another inline fuse and switch but my electronic knowledge isn't the greatest and unsure of that method.
What is the easiest method to install a switch for accomplish my objective?
Thanks
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On Saturday, July 23, 2016 at 4:22:34 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:

How are you going to get a connection to both sides of where the fuse inserts? If you're going to find the wire coming from that fuse to power the lights, then you could just put your switch in series with that wire, no new fuse. If you do what you're suggesting, then the new wire from the battery side of the old fuse that goes to your new switch is now unfused, ie it has no over current protection.
Aside from that, whether it will work depends on how your car is wired. If it's an old style, where the path is battery, fuse, switch, lights, it will work. But many cars now have various lights driven by electronic modules. How that responds to what you're proposing, who knows.
Inquiring minds of course want to know, what is the purpose of this modification? Sounds to me like you're fixing a problem that doesn't exist. Another issue would be whether current fed or state law requires daytime running lights.
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On Saturday, July 23, 2016 at 3:22:34 PM UTC-5, SBH wrote:

If this is GM (possibly others), there is a sensor for full brightness when it's dark. I wouldn't mess with it...
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Sat, 23 Jul 2016 20:42:11 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

If it's an S10, press the little button (interior light switch) beside your dial light switch , several times quickly. It'll beep, lights will goto 'manual' mode. Daytime/headlights will be off. Your headlights are now on manual control via your dial switch, daytime running lights are down until you turn the truck off and cause the reset.
Keep in mind, this means, your truck will not turn the headlights/running lights on for you when it's sensor tells it it should, either. You really are on manual control only at that point.
Once you turn the truck off though, it'll reset to it's old behavior and you just repeat the process above to put it back into manual mode.
Disabling your daytime running lights on a vehicle equipped with them may violate one or more laws. I provide this information as educational advice only. What you do/or don't do with it, is your decision and your responsibility.
If you're more specific about the vehicle you're trying to do this with, I may be able to provide specific educational advice for that, but, again, It's your decision and your responsible for any tickets you might get as a result of disabling your daytime running lights.
Ie: I'm just the messenger.
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On Sun, 11 Sep 2016 00:08:14 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster

Nope.
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Sun, 11 Sep 2016 07:08:14 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

Considering you aren't supposed to intentionally disable your daytime running lights (they are a 'safety' feature) I bet it's not in the manual.
The information I posted didn't come from a manual, either. Infact, it's not even listed in the manual. [g] It's a 'feature' I found by accident intended for automotive technician use.
Personally, if you can't see a lifted s10 coming towards you in the daytime without it's 'running lights' on, you have a bigger problem and YOU shouldn't be sharing the road with it. Oh how did we ever make it this far without those running lights being on everything we've ever had... rofl.
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On 09/11/2016 03:10 PM, Diesel wrote:

DRLs often get my attention when I'm busy answering an important text.
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Sun, 11 Sep 2016 19:39:54 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:

[g]
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On 09/11/2016 11:51 PM, Diesel wrote:

While texting, it's usually the sound of a horn from the oncoming car that gets my attention.
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On 9/11/2016 3:10 PM, Diesel wrote:

The studies I saw said it was marginal help. I have seen a couple of cases where I saw an approaching car with DRL before I saw the car in front of it. In that situation it was of no real value. The situation was the cars were in tree shaded road during bright sun and a good distance away. By the time I did see the other car it was still far enough away it did not matter.
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Some vehicles these lights can be deactivated by input to the ODB II connector. This of course won't allow random on/off changes without additional input.
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On 7/23/2016 4:52 PM, Gordon Shumway wrote:

I prefer something as simple as a switch because I want to keep them on as required, but only need to turn them off occasionally.
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I do surveillance work and often, I need to cut the lights for obvious reasons.
My car uses the DRL as the high beams when needed, but I am able to remove the fuse to completely turn them off and still use them as high beams since they require a separate fuse, but I like the DRL. Therefore, my thought was to use that DRL fuse and install a switch since technically, removing it turns it off, a switch would provide that option without having to remove it when on a job.
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On Saturday, July 23, 2016 at 4:58:06 PM UTC-4, SBH wrote:

Well, I'll be damned, you actually have a good reason. Have you tried pulling the fuse, seeing what happens? If it does what you want and nothing else bad happens, then you could do what I suggested, find the wire from the fuse, insert your switch, no extra fuse.
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On 7/23/2016 5:02 PM, trader_4 wrote:

Yes, as I stated, pulling the fuse will deactivate them and nothing more, at least that I discovered. I will ensure nothing more becomes of the pulled fused and if confirmed, I like your suggestion of tapping into the light side of the wiring.
Thanks
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On 7/23/16 5:02 PM, trader_4 wrote:

To avoid cutting into the car's wiring, you might do this:
1. disconnect the battery and remove the existing fuse 2. with an "inline fuse holder", attach its wire from the "barrel" side to the battery-side terminal of the car's fuse holder. 3. from the other end of the inline fuse holder, splice on a wire that you run to one terminal of the switch 4. from the other terminal of the switch, run a wire to the other side of the car's fuse holder.
That way the fuse is "nearest" to the battery feed, and you have not cut any of the existing car wiring, should you want to remove the switch later.
Depending on what type of fuse (blade, round, etc) is in the car now, NAPA, etc should have terminal lugs to use to make the connections to each end of the car's fuse holder.
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On 7/23/2016 5:19 PM, Retired wrote:

That should be step 2
Step one is to find out the consequences of disconnecting the battery. You may have to enter a radio security code to use it again. Battery shops insert a power source in the the lighter to keep some power when the battery it taken out.
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On 7/23/2016 5:19 PM, Retired wrote:

If this is what I think you're saying, this was the general idea I have.
If you don't mind helping me understand.....I'm not certain what the "barrel" side of the inline fuse holder is if I use one like this >>>
http://www.hondagrom.net/forums/attachments/2212d1377685313-battery-maintenance-emergency-jump-inlinefuse_zpsac120ede.jpg
You're saying insert the wire from one end of the fuse holder into the open battery side of the car's fuse which was removed. After running through the switch, insert the other wire to the other side of the empty car's fuse holder and that's it?
I assume the terminal lugs are what I will use to secure those two wires into the empty fuse holder? I also assume the fuse I removed from the car will be the same one I reuse in the inline holder?
Thanks
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On 7/23/16 9:54 PM, Meanie wrote:

Re "barrel", I was thinking of the older tubular fuse type.

Yes, you are creating a new current path from the battery, thru the new fuse, thru the switch, and back to the lights.

Yes, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/GTC-CT6100-Fuse-Socket-Connector/dp/B001TCXOTW

Yes.

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On 7/23/2016 10:54 PM, Retired wrote:

Excellent. Thank you
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