New Tool

[krw]

Not true. The arm/rail is not perfectly rigid, the bearings are not perfectly true, and the latches have hysterisis. Even if you could set it up perfectly (you can't - there aren't the adjustments), it wouldn't hold them for a cut. Errors add up.

That may be true and for framing, it probably is. They're not so good for finish work, though. Note that I have their 10" SMCS and it's well worth the $100 I paid for it ten years ago. It's no match for my Bosch, though (and the Bosch is far from perfect). Yes, I still use both.

[DerbyDad03]

I'm confused. How can a miter saw be off ± 1/4"?

If I draw a line and line up the blade with that line, it's going to be as accurate as my measurement and my eye.

If I use a stop block for multiple cuts, it's going to be as accurate as my ability to position the stop block in the correct position.

Are you saying that the blade of a HF miter saw is going to shift ± 1/4" between cuts?

Here's a tip for shaving just a bit off of a board with a miter saw:

Lower the blade to the lowest position. Slide the workpiece along the table until it exerts a very small amount of sideways pressure on the blade. Holding the wood firmly in position, raise the blade, start the saw and bring it back down. You'll shave off just a minuscule amount of wood.

[Ed Pawlowski]

I'm talking in generalities, many tools, not just your saw. Yes, a stop block solves most of the problems, but any saw can have a tiny shift from stroke to stroke, but we don't use micrometers for wood working.

I've seen low priced tools that are crap. I've seen low price tools that are identical to the ones selling for 3X the price, the only difference is the nameplate. I've seen low priced tools that do an excellent job. You have to use care in selecting them.

[DerbyDad03]

I see what you are saying, however, many woodworkers do use micrometers, as well as dial indicators. I do.

Just some examples...