I measured only 12psi of air in my bladder tank after it was fully
emptied of water. Should be around 28. Need to buy a new pressure
tank (32gal equivalent or bigger) and am looking for recommendations.
I've read some poor reviews of HomeDepot's Flotec tank. Local
plumbing supply scowled when I mentioned Amtrol because they use
"lower grade steel made in China" but I'm not sure how valid that
claim is because he was trying REALLY hard to sell me his floor
model. I've also seen Utilitech tanks from Lowes that appear to be a
Is there a quality heirarchy out there for these tanks? All
P.S. thanks for all the great replies to my previous post to
investigate my tank/pump problem!
One issue is whether you want steel or composite. The steel ones I've
seen look nicer, with a nice bright painted finish, while the
composite ones have a rougher look to them. If it's going someplace
where it can be seen, like beside the house, that may be an issue, as
is how the finish lasts when exposed to weather. The advantage to
composite is that they cost less and won't rust, so in 10 years, they
may look better than the steel one when used outside.
Have you verified that the tank bladder is not holding air and it's
not the air valve that is leaking, etc?
Tank location is in basement corner, so no need to be beautiful.
There's enough corrosion on the tank tee to indicate the whole
assembly's getting on in years. Certainly older than the 6years I've
owned this place.
I've not verified if or where the leak is.
Honestly, I'm worried that if I attempt to recharge the air, some
immediate failure will occur and I'll be without water until I _run_
and get a new tank now. (Is this a legitimate concern?) So just
dealing with the somewhat more frequent pumping (pump engages every 2
gallons used, on average) until I replace.
I'd not worry, no.
Recharge it will be better for the system than continuing to cycle the pump.
I'd recommend looking at diaphragm type as well...can't recall what the
brand here is--they're blue, though :) I'll try to recall to go to the
well house and look while I'm out...
I agree. The only risk I see is if the valve stem is corroded/shot so
bad that it starts leaking water. And it would only leak water if the
bladder was ruptured. If you have 12 PSI with the tank drained, that
should not be an issue. The only other bad thing that could happen, I
guess, if the air valve is fouled up and you try to put air in it, and
it leaks all the air out, you could wind up with no air at all. But
then you should be able to just replace the air valve, again unless
the whole thing is shot.
On Thursday, June 7, 2018 at 12:14:15 AM UTC-4, bob wrote:
The ones I've seen were just shrader valves like those that go in
a car tire. Screw it out with a valve removal tool or a metal valve
cap that has that feature on the end. You then have to charge it to
the correct air pressure.
And for Bob, the OP, know also that just because the tank loses that
pressure, it doesn't necessarily follow that the valve is bad. In older
tanks, without rubber bladders, the air is "absorbed" by the water and
the ambient pressure of the tank decreases with time until there is no
air cushion at all. In those types of tanks, routine re-pressurization
is required. Same holds true for a bladder type tank that has a
ruptured bladder. I didn't see where you explained just why you feel
the valve itself is the problem.
Indeed, go ahead and recharge. What's more important IMO than the
brand of tank is plumbing it to allow easy replacement the next time
you have to replace it. IMO, just get whatever tank they have
You guys totally rock!!
Just emptied all water from tank, pumped air pressure to 26PSI (2
below the cut-in pressure of the pump) and turned it all back on.
Now I get 8+ gallons before the pump comes on instead of only 2!!
Even the missus says we've always had the pump kick on after each
flush, so maybe it's been 12psi since we bought the house 4+years
ago. So, I'll keep an eye on the air pressure from time-to-time to
see if/how it lowers. If it doesn't go down any time quick, I'll
conclude that the tank is fine.
Again, thanks to all of you!!
Never having had a well, I'm only thinking out loud. Can you turn off
the well (switch or breaker). Then open a faucet. Inflate the tank to
28 PSI. Screw a cap on the inflater valve stem. Turn the faucet off,
and power on. Would that do the job?
I agree, there are some rather wise and helpful and kind people who
post to this list.
On Sat, 5 Apr 2014 09:14:29 -0700 (PDT), email@example.com wrote:
Maybe. Maybe not.
How old is your tank? The older tanks, mine is 40 years old, have no
bladder. The phenomenon you are seeing is what happens when you pass
the threshold of the cut in pressure when charging the tank. That's
no big deal.
I am at the same point as you, I am in need of a new pressure tank, I researched
the reviews on Lowes website it seems the majority of the reviews for all the
Utilitech tanks are not that great, many are failing within 5 years or not
working right out of the box....
I would just shoot some air in there and keep an eye on it. Losing the
charge is pretty normal. That is why they put an air valve on it.
When you air them up and the air comes out of the water line, you know
you are in trouble.
I have seen the bladders for sale on the internet but they are almost
as much as a new tank.
On Thursday, October 14, 2010 at 9:43:55 AM UTC-4, millinghill wrote:
Geezz,I'd like to know how to get the water out to change the tank. I see all manner of plugs but no drain,duh. WTF was the plumber thinking? There is a pin hole leak on the side of my big blue tank, another duh?
On Thu, 26 Mar 2015 07:43:25 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org
If it was installed properly, there would be valve in the pipes, near
where it enters the bottom of the tank. There should also be a union in
the pipes. I have installed many of these tanks. I always have a union
to make it easy to install, and disconnect, and I always have a tee, on
the bottom of the pipes, where one side goes to the bottom of the tank,
and the other side of the tee is a valve (faucet spigot). That spigot
not only allows for draining the tank, but comes in handy for connecting
a garden hose, for example, if you want to wash the basement floor. And
in a place where the plumbing might freeze, that valve allows an easy
way to drain the plumbing system.
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