New Homelite Trimmer Won't Start

Page 2 of 3  
On 6/2/2012 11:52 AM, Jon Danniken wrote:

I have to agree with the other posters, Stihl is the best!
You can make excuses and blame lawyers and EPA all you want but I've never had to do any of those things to get my Stihl 2-strokes to run.
FWIW, I do use Stihl MotoMix exclusively so that I don't have to worry about ethanol fuel decay and resultant damage. I just keep everything fueled up with MotoMix and ready to go. They always start easily and run great.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

On a related question, I have a 2 cycle weed whacker that would not start. I sprayed carb cleaner in it and now it starts just fine, will run with the choke off, but as soon as you give it about 50%+ throttle it starts to stall. And at that point even quickly backing off on the throttle, it will not recover, it just dies out.
While cleaning and looking at it I noticed one thing that doesn's seem right. When I pump the bulb I see solid gas going into the carb, but some bubbles are there in the return line. Even pumping many times makes no difference.
So, my current theory is that there is a leak at the carb that is allowing air to get sucked in? And that it isn't a problem at lower power but causes fuel starvation at higher power? Next thing I'm going to do is see what the return fuel line does when it running and the problem occurs. Any other thoughts?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Bulb could have a small crack that you can't see and it don't leak because you have your finger over the crack, or fuel line has crack, or you need to put gas in it.
I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve your problem.
Hank
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If it were the bulb, there would be air in the sending line as well as the return line. Also, I've never seen a bulb with an air leak where fuel was not leaking out when it's pressed.

It might be a leak right where the return line joins the carb. But that's where it would have to be because the bubbles are showing up right where it leaves the carb. Again, no bubbles going in the carb, only bubbles coming out.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Obviously your experiences are different than mine. If I were to repair his trimmer, the first thing I would do, with the symptoms he gave, is to replace all fuel lines and primer bulb and spark plug. This takes care of 90% of the problems. If he is too cheap to fork out the $5-$10 to replace these parts, he is just wasting his time trying to find out which one it is.
I have repaired unknown numbers of trimmers and 2 stroke equipment for 30+ years in a shop.
Hank
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I was not telling him what to do. I was asking about what to do with MY problem, which is different.

Then I would think that you would agree that air bubbles in the return line from the carb, with no air bubbles in the supply line from the tank and priming bulb can't be due to a leaking bulb, or a leak in the fuel line from the tank to the bulb, right? If there is a leak, it would seem to me that it would have to be right where the supply fuel line connects to the carb or else in the carb itself. And if it's leaking at the connection to the carb, wouldn't there typically be some fuel leaking visibly when the priming bulb is pushed? It's forcing fuel into the carb, so if there was a leak, wouldn't some fuel come out under pressure?
One basic question is should there ever be air bubbles in the fuel return line after priming it say 10 times?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Not all trimmers have a fuel return line.
Oneof these days you may come across a primer bulb that has a crack in it and then you'll know what i am talking about. They usually crack on the tip of the bulb, therefore, when you put your finger on it to push, you are basically sealing the crack. When you let off, it will suck air in, not gas. Usualy they don't leak either.
There shouldn't be any air in the lines. The fuel filter helps keep the line deep in the tank. If it comes off, you may suck air.
Hank
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Don't think so. This is almost brand new.
wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
replying to Ed Pawlowski, tickedoff wrote: seriously , they only last a few hours. are you talking about an electric one. mine is hardly ever used also and it just stopped just like that.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If you prime the carb before checking

The fuel from the primer bulb goes in the intake side of the crankcase. Fuel has to go thru crankcase first, before it reaches the plug on 2 strokes ( which I assume it is). He would have to push the primer bulb and the pull the starter rope for fuel to show up on the plug.
Hank
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hank wrote:

You are correct. I've assumed if he had been pushing the primer bulb, that he had been pulling the rope to start it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thursday, May 31, 2012 11:03:39 PM UTC-5, frank1492 wrote:

Something often over-looked on 2-cycles...blocked exhaust.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Bob_Villa wrote:

Not likely on a new unit. He would have to have really overdone the oil mixture.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Friday, June 1, 2012 7:40:57 AM UTC-5, 83LowRider wrote:

I've seen one that had turf in it (laying in the grass to start-it)!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 6/1/2012 12:03 AM, frank1492 wrote:

I'd say, if under warranty and bought at big box store, take it back and get a new one. Getting repaired under warranty in my experience can be a PITA and the big stores will normally trade back with no question.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

If it's still under the return policy, just return it. Otherwise maybe flooded??? I recall in the old days, to pull the plug and just pull the cord multiple times to unflood it. Check the plug to make sure it's still clean ... not full of oil at gapped end. Then put it back, prime as normal and try to start again. I know mine (different brand) is probably made by a female because it's tempermental at times. Other times, it starts fine.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

perhaps the ethanol in the gas(E10) has swelled some rubber part,restricting the fuel feed? lots of people are experiencing problems in small engines with ethanol in the gas.
--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Friday, June 1, 2012 11:26:25 AM UTC-4, Jim Yanik wrote:

On a NEW unit, not likely. I suppose a "new" unit could be several months to over a year old, but usually new is new, a couple months at most. It takes more than a couple months for the ethanol gas to adversely effect rubber parts.
Maybe some piece of crap left over from the manufacturing/assembly process got wedged in somewhere, but you would need to know something about these units to tear it down and find the obstruction.
It would also require that the trimmer is past the box store's return policy, and the OP has no other option than to fix it himself or send it back to China for warranty repair.

I can say I haven't had a single issue I could attribute to ethanol in the gas, myself. I leave my string trimmer sit full of gas over the winter and it starts on the second pull every time every spring. I have a 35-year-old chainsaw that I leave mix sit in for months at a time. Always runs.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ours stopped after a few uses also. After much messing about, I found that the screws that held the priming bulb to the carb had worked loose and tightening them fixed the problem... Never had another problem until the priming bulb and fuel line disintegrated (from being left in the sun).
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Read all the advice. I had a similar "don't want to start problem (Ryko). Called customer service--got an experienced tech. Where the instructions said "prime the bulb 7 times" he said do it as many as 14 times. If it don't start then put it in the Run position, hold down the trigger and pull. That does it every time. One other thing--the way I hold the unit while trying to start also has a bearing--the inlet line in the tank can be out of the fuel at times--I make sure that it is submerged when starting. Just a thought--is it possible that the line in the fuel tank is blocked/crimped/leaky? MLD
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.