This has been used only a few times. Today it wouldn't start.
Followed the instructions carefully and even tried spraying quikstart
into the carburetor. Never fired, not even once.
I'm usually pretty good at diagnosing, but this has me stumped.
Any help you could give would be most appreciated. (Yes, the
compression is fine.)
I did notice that the priming bulb was full and that it didn't
seem to depress well (too much resistance) as though it wasn't pumping
the gas properly, but I may be off on that.
Pull the spark plug.
Is it dry and 'normal' looking?
Ground the end of the plug and pull the
cord. with the switch in the "On" position.
(or get a spark tester for a few bucks).
Is there spark?
There's only 3 relevant things most of the time
(barring the engine being worn out). Fuel, spark
and timing. If you prime the carb before checking
the plug, you should see gas on it <plug>. Likewise, you
can pour a small amount of fuel directly into the plug
hole, screw plug in, and try to start. Spraying fuel
into the air filter/intake does not guarantee it is getting into
The plug was wettish. I replaced the fuel with fresh. Still not a
I think that says no spark. When I check I'll report back but I
think this may clinch it.
On Fri, 1 Jun 2012 01:49:39 -0400, "83LowRider"
Well then, we know you're GETTING fuel to the carb.
When you see/say the plug was wet - it shouldn't be - unless
you had just <very> recently primed it.
That doesn't say anything as to whether you're getting spark.
Take the plug out, put the spark plug cap/boot on the plug.
Ground the bottom of the plug against the engine.
With switch turned 'on', pull the cord. You should see
a spark. You'll often 'hear' it as well.
Take out the plug.
Pull the cord several times and let it sit for a day ( gets gas out of
Next day pull it a couple more times
Get new plug and check for spark BEFORE you put it in
If no spark, check to make sure kill switch is in the RUN position
If you have spark, then install NEW plug
From experience, I know exactly what the problem is. It says
"Homelite" on the side of it. Tools that are marked "Homelite" last
for only a few hours.
Go back to the store and look for one that says Stihl, Husqvarna,
Honda and it will start much easier and last much longer.
I bought a USED Homelite chainsaw (a cheap, Chinese-made, underpowered
big-box version) last year to cut up a stump. It was used by the
previous owner to the point where the paint was worn off of the bar.
I used it as-was to cut the stump up, resharpening the blade every time
I hit dirt (which was frequent because this was a stump), and it worked
This year when I ran it to cut some trees (in the rain), after not much
work it wouldn't start. I cleaned the (clogged) air filter and bought a
new plug, and it's back to working like new.
If you are a professional and need professional-grade gear, then yeah,
you need to step up, but my cheap, used cheap-Chinese Homelite product
is working just fine for my homeowner needs.
Already got one, but thanks. :)
One thing you have to realize is that they typical Homelite purchaser is
not going to be an experienced two-cycle engine user. They will be less
likely to properly mix the gas, they might keep it too long (ie, not use
the mix within a month), they will be more likely to leave gas sitting
in the tank, and they will be more likely to forego the routine
maintenance (air filter and spark plug) that any two-cycle motor requires.
Yes, they are cheaply built, but how much saw can you reasonably expect
for $80? Despite that, I've had good luck with mine using it for
intermittent household-duty work, paying attention to proper maintenance.
On 06/02/2012 11:34 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I mix mine up by the pint. One pint is about 500mL, so adding 10mL from
a into the 500mL gives me a 50:1 mix. Between the trimmer and the saw I
use it up within a month (or two if I'm being lazy, but I use the oil
with the stabilizer in it).
On 6/2/2012 6:32 PM, email@example.com wrote:
are we talking string trimmer? With a crank case full of oil? What
brand is that? It must be heavy. How's it work upside down? I really
don't need to get out more. I have stihl products, no need to go out
anymore at all.
remove the "not" from my address to email
You might do it differently if you run a landscape service.
But I've been using my 90 buck Craftsman for about 8 years.
Probably put no more than a couple hours run time on it each season.
Maybe less than 2 hours. That's all I need.
Never drained the tank. Never pulled the plug.
Always started with a few yanks after sitting all winter, always with
old gas in it. In fact, I bought the gas I that was in it at the
start of this season about 4 years ago.
Wouldn't start this year, so I drained the tank and turned it upside
down for a couple days. Bought new gas for the mix, primed it and it
started with a few yanks.
Kind of disappointed me. Was looking to get a new one, with 2
Anyway, it's always had touchy choking. If not fully choked and at
half-throttle, it won't fire. You'd think it was purely dead.
Then as soon as it fires, you have open the choke quickly, or it dies.
And I mean quick. Like 2 seconds quick.
Then it runs like a banshee.
So tricky choking causes some engines to seem dead.
I've seen the same on car/truck carbed engines, but on 2 strokes it
shows up much more.
Always check the choke first, then move to spark.
The problem I've had with cheap chinese big box store crap is that they
don't start easily nor do they stay running. Set a cheap chinasaw down
for 30 seconds to reposition a log and the saw will die. Then your doing
the Jane Fonda Workout on the starter cord trying to get it running again.
Do yourself a favor and toss that chinasaw out the car window on the way
to your local Stihl dealer.
The idle adjustment screw is easily accessible and quickly fixes that
problem; if you had read the fine manual you would discovered this for
yourself. They are purposely set too low to keep the EPA happy, as
well as to make DAMN SURE that there is ZERO CHANCE of the clutch
engaging when someone sets the saw down next to the baby when they go in
the house for another crackhit (you can thank the lawyers for that one).
A harder adjustment is increasing the mixture screws to be richer,
because they have a limiter on each screw which allows them to only be
turned leaner (again, thanks to the EPA for that one). This can cause a
problem if the saw is running too lean at WOT, and will burn it up in
As in most limiter screws, it is easily bypassed if you are somewhat
handy (I removed the limiters on mine).
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