I have to agree with the other posters, Stihl is the best!
You can make excuses and blame lawyers and EPA all you want but I've
never had to do any of those things to get my Stihl 2-strokes to run.
FWIW, I do use Stihl MotoMix exclusively so that I don't have to worry
about ethanol fuel decay and resultant damage. I just keep everything
fueled up with MotoMix and ready to go. They always start easily and run
On a related question, I have a 2 cycle weed whacker
that would not start. I sprayed carb cleaner in it and
now it starts just fine, will run with the choke off, but
as soon as you give it about 50%+ throttle it starts
to stall. And at that point even quickly backing off on
the throttle, it will not recover, it just dies out.
While cleaning and looking at it I noticed one thing
that doesn's seem right. When I pump the bulb I
see solid gas going into the carb, but some bubbles
are there in the return line. Even pumping many
times makes no difference.
So, my current theory is that there is a leak at the
carb that is allowing air to get sucked in? And
that it isn't a problem at lower power but causes
fuel starvation at higher power? Next thing I'm
going to do is see what the return fuel line does
when it running and the problem occurs. Any
Bulb could have a small crack that you can't see and it don't leak
because you have your finger over the crack, or fuel line has crack,
or you need to put gas in it.
I woud replace the fuel line. This is the most common problem. Then
replace the primer bulb ( less than $5). One or the other should solve
If it were the bulb, there would be air in the sending line as well
as the return line. Also, I've never seen a bulb with an air leak
where fuel was not leaking out when it's pressed.
It might be a leak right where the return line joins the carb. But
where it would have to be because the bubbles are showing up right
where it leaves the carb. Again, no bubbles going in the carb, only
bubbles coming out.
Obviously your experiences are different than mine. If I were to
repair his trimmer, the first thing I would do, with the symptoms he
gave, is to replace all fuel lines and primer bulb and spark plug.
This takes care of 90% of the problems. If he is too cheap to fork out
the $5-$10 to replace these parts, he is just wasting his time trying
to find out which one it is.
I have repaired unknown numbers of trimmers and 2 stroke equipment for
30+ years in a shop.
I was not telling him what to do. I was asking about what to do
with MY problem, which is different.
Then I would think that you would agree that air bubbles in the return
from the carb, with no air bubbles in the supply line
from the tank and priming bulb can't be due to a leaking bulb, or a
leak in the fuel line from the tank to the bulb, right? If there is a
it would seem to me that it would have to be right where the supply
fuel line connects to the carb or else in the carb itself. And if
leaking at the connection to the carb, wouldn't there typically be
some fuel leaking visibly when the priming bulb is pushed? It's
forcing fuel into the carb, so if there was a leak, wouldn't some
fuel come out under pressure?
One basic question is should there ever be air bubbles in the fuel
line after priming it say 10 times?
Not all trimmers have a fuel return line.
Oneof these days you may come across a primer bulb that has a crack in
it and then you'll know what i am talking about. They usually crack on
the tip of the bulb, therefore, when you put your finger on it to
push, you are basically sealing the crack. When you let off, it will
suck air in, not gas. Usualy they don't leak either.
There shouldn't be any air in the lines. The fuel filter helps keep
the line deep in the tank. If it comes off, you may suck air.
The fuel from the primer bulb goes in the intake side of the
crankcase. Fuel has to go thru crankcase first, before it reaches the
plug on 2 strokes ( which I assume it is). He would have to push the
primer bulb and the pull the starter rope for fuel to show up on the
I'd say, if under warranty and bought at big box store, take it back and
get a new one. Getting repaired under warranty in my experience can be
a PITA and the big stores will normally trade back with no question.
If it's still under the return policy, just return it. Otherwise
maybe flooded??? I recall in the old days, to pull the plug and just
pull the cord multiple times to unflood it. Check the plug to make
sure it's still clean ... not full of oil at gapped end. Then put it
back, prime as normal and try to start again. I know mine (different
brand) is probably made by a female because it's tempermental at
times. Other times, it starts fine.
On Friday, June 1, 2012 11:26:25 AM UTC-4, Jim Yanik wrote:
On a NEW unit, not likely. I suppose a "new" unit could be several months to over a year old, but usually new is new, a couple months at most. It takes more than a couple months for the ethanol gas to adversely effect rubber parts.
Maybe some piece of crap left over from the manufacturing/assembly process got wedged in somewhere, but you would need to know something about these units to tear it down and find the obstruction.
It would also require that the trimmer is past the box store's return policy, and the OP has no other option than to fix it himself or send it back to China for warranty repair.
I can say I haven't had a single issue I could attribute to ethanol in the gas, myself. I leave my string trimmer sit full of gas over the winter and it starts on the second pull every time every spring. I have a 35-year-old chainsaw that I leave mix sit in for months at a time. Always runs.
Ours stopped after a few uses also. After much messing about, I found
that the screws that held the priming bulb to the carb had worked
loose and tightening them fixed the problem... Never had another
problem until the priming bulb and fuel line disintegrated (from being
left in the sun).
Read all the advice. I had a similar "don't want to start problem (Ryko).
Called customer service--got an experienced tech. Where the instructions
said "prime the bulb 7 times" he said do it as many as 14 times. If it
don't start then put it in the Run position, hold down the trigger and pull.
That does it every time. One other thing--the way I hold the unit while
trying to start also has a bearing--the inlet line in the tank can be out of
the fuel at times--I make sure that it is submerged when starting. Just a
thought--is it possible that the line in the fuel tank is
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