My central a/c won't work:(!!! HOT IN TEXAS!

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

If the outside fan is running but not the compressor, then it's likely the compressor motor itself or its protective circuit. If it were the contactor (i.e. the cheap repair) I don't think the outside fan would be running, because they're normally on the same circuit.
I would try shutting it completely off (preferably at the breaker box) and letting it cool for a couple of hours, then trying to start it again.
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The outdoor fan may run on 110V even though the compressor unquestionably runs on 220V. Therefore, a blown fuse, bad contactor, or loose connection on one of the "hot" feeds to the outdoor unit could possibly explain this set of symptoms.
Smarty

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Smarty wrote:

That's possible, too -- I hadn't thought of it. So thanks for pointing it out.
I think the bottom line is it's awfully hard to diagnose these things long distance, especially given the variety of equipment in the field -- the OP is going to need to get somebody with some familiarity with the basics and a multimeter on the scene to check it out.

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unquestionably
connection on

set
As she said at alt.hvac
that'd be unecessary :-)
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on
I see your not very 'smarty' when it comes to residential air conditioning systems.
120 volt fan motor... yeah, ok, whatever.
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Well, in actual fact, my rental units ***DID HAVE A 120 VOLT FAN" which was switched with the contactor on one pole only, leaving the other pole to handle the 220V feed to the compressor. I actually had a failure of exactly the type described by the original poster, and this failure was the corrosion / rusting of the contactor terminal on the compressor feed side / pole. The fan continued to run but the compressor did not. The unit was a Weatherking made by Addison Products. I imagine that the 220 volt fan motors are much more common since that is what I have seen in my servicing Lenox and Carrier units.
My point in posting originally was that the compressor was not necessarily at fault, and jumping to the conclusion that it is at fault is a poor way to diagnose the problem. As someone else here as suggested, a good VOM / multimeter and knowledge should be the way to troubleshoot.
Smarty

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was
exactly
/
Have a model number?

to
I liked the 'kicking' diagnosis. :-)
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wrote:

Or something you failed to mention.
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turn off the power to it for 10 minutes and retry it.
http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm
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10 minutes... ???
What's that going to do? Give it time for a smoke break?
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On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 22:25:20 -0000, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

As I understand it, the folks at alt.hvac are always tough, but you still should learn to phrase questions according to the audience.

I don't know enough to have an opinion on the root question, but I know that pros don't think that they, or that many other pros, overcharge for small repairs. Therefore, using 3 $$$ signs is insulting to them.

A lot of usenet people dislike stories. They want the question up front with any details afterward, and they especially get bored if you first say nothing cold and then change it to pretty hot. Maybe they're insulted because the person writing didn't bother to reread and edit her post for conciseness before posting.

Even here this bothered people, and I, who sort of thought it was meant as a joke, didn't get the feeling that it was meant as a joke, and even I was somewhat annoyed. Pros have this thing about them, in whatever area they are pros in, that they take things more seriously than amateurs. I thought you would take that out before you posted in hvac. But you posted the very same post.

"no good reason" is like kicking the ac in that it's not serious but doesn't reach the level of funny.
You have to get to know your audience.

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