Kenmore Icemaker Repair Question

This is a Sears Kenmore Icemaker, about 5 years old. Icemaker doesn't get water.
I studied the problem, and thought for sure it was the water solenoid and valve. So, I replaced that, but the icemaker still doesn't get water.
The drinking water outlet on the front of the refrigerator works fine.
I don't know exactly what "signals" the icemaker to receive water. I know it is on a timer, but I don't know where the timer is, or how it works...
Is this a repair that an average homeowner should be able to do ?
any comments or ideas will be appreciated.
Thanks
James
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James wrote:

Andy comments:
Well, here is just an idea.
"Sometimes" the water in the drain tube freezes and you get water running all over hell... SO, it may be possible t;hat the water in the feed tube might freeze also.......
If this is so, then the fix is to defrost the hell out of the freezing compartment...
In other words, take all the frozen stuff out and put it in a box and cover it with something to keep it cold.
Put a 100w lamp in the freezing compartment to speed things along. Unplug the fridge and wait about a day.... By then, EVERYTHING will have melted...
Put everything back and see if things start to work...
Just an idea.... you will get several more from this group.... some might work.....
Andy in Eureka, Texas

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Assume it's a frost free freezer being 5 yrs old. If it wasn't, bulb can be a bad idea I would think. Ever run a drop light under a car in winter where's there's snow? Heat warms underside snow and ice. It drips down. Hits light bulb. Light bulb explodes.
A hairdryer can be targeted at areas and speed things as well.

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Icemakers are the most common repair on refrigerators. I've repaired mine once and replaced it the second time. Overall, not a difficult job. I like having one so I'm willing to fix as needed.
Try going to www.repairclinic.com and www.applianceaid.com for some diagnostic help. I don't know the details, but the icemaker has to function to send the signal to the valve to open. Front cover comes off for access to the motor and wiring harness. Make sure the arm id down and allowing it to cycle and that the temperature is OK for it to work. If they get out of sync it can take hours for the machine to start.
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wrote:

As Andy says, this is often a frozen feed tube. You should be able to see that because it will be solid with ice. I have been able to unclog it without doing all that stuff by picking out as much ice as possible and heating it with a hair dryer. The next thing is to see if the solenoid is picking. You should hear it. If you have the one with the ice bucket on the door and no wire bail you have to pull the ice maker out to do the next thing. You can initiate a cycle by shorting the 2 test points at 5 o'clock on the gear. USE AN IINSULATED JUMPER this is 120v. Right before it gets back to the stopped position it will dump the water. That little screw on the left adjusts the amount, CCW is more. Don't screw with this unless it is just not dumping enough when it works. The contact that dumps the water (and all other timing functions) are foil traces on the back if the gear. About 99% of problems in the ice maker itself get fixed if you replace the "head". That is the whole brown plastic deal, motor, gears and all with 3 screws holding it on. This varies between 60% and 90% of the price of the whole ice maker depending on what sales are going on. Shop around. This is the same as Whirlpool, Roper, Kitchen Aid, Amana and about 2/3ds of the other brands. The ones that are not "GE" based.
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Wow, thanks for the good replies on this. I will check into the things suggested.
James
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James wrote:

Its usually just a frozen supply line.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can\'t make them THINK"
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