Maytag fridge icemaker water hookup

[Nil]

Anybody familiar with how this is done?

I just took delivery today of a new Maytag fridge from Sears, which came with a factory-installed icemaker. I didn't realize that the delivery guys hadn't hooked up the water line until they had left. I figured that I could probably do it myself, but I find that the diagram in the manual does not resemble the actual fridge. Here's the man page:

Here are two pictures of the actual hookup area:

I don't think the diagram agrees with the physical unit. The book makes it look like there should be two parallel tubes, a black one that emerges from behind the metal panel at the rear bottom access panel of the fridge, and another that dangles from above. As you can see, there is only one actual tube, and no obvious place to hook up my water line.

Am I missing something? Could this have been assembled incorrectly at the factory and is actually missing the "refrigerator connection" that's referred to in the manual?

[charlie]

you have the wrong diagram. you should dags on it, given the model number, to get the right one.

what is inside the gray box? there should be a connector there.

[daszkiew2000]

we just cut off and capped our icemaker waterline in a basement. just make yourself icecubes. times are tough.

[trader4]

What's the thing going into the bottom of the back of the fridge near the vent that looks like 1/4" copper water tubing?

[Stormin Mormon]

The water valve is down by the floor. You have to take off the little grey cover to get at it.

If you're not comfortable with this, most plumbers, HVAC guys or handymen can hook it up. I'm a HVAC guy, and done several of these.

[Nil]

On 17 Jul 2008, [e-mail] wrote in alt.home.repair:

That's my water supply. It's just coiled up against the wall. It's not really going into the fridge, the perspective just makes it look like that in the photo.

[Nil]

On 17 Jul 2008, "Stormin Mormon" wrote in alt.home.repair:

Hmmm... OK. That's not what the diagram implies, but I did wonder what was in there. I started to remove that gray cover, but it turns out you have to remove the entire back panel, not just the gray plastic cover. What I could see through the slats, though didn't look like a water hookup, so I stopped there. I'll take the whole thing off tomorrow and see what's up.

By the way, I mis-reported the brand. It's not a Maytag, it's a Kenmore, model # 795.78304.801. I've had Maytag on the brain as well, because my Maytag dishwasher also just broke.

So, it's a Kenmore, not Maytag. Probably doesn't make any difference to this discussion, but I hope it didn't cause any confusion.

[trader4]

If the manual is not the right one for that model, I'd go to the Sears/ Kenmore website and see if you can locate and view the correct one. If that doesn't work, google appliance parts. Most of the online ones have the same online parts diagrams, where you put in the model and they show how the whole refrigerator is put together part by part. You should be able to figure it out from there.

[Nil]

On 17 Jul 2008, Nil wrote in alt.home.repair:

OK, I removed the back panel, and I think I've found the water line hookup. Does this look like it?

If so, I guess all I need is a compression nut for the copper tubing, and I should be good to go.

The manual I have is the correct one for this model fridge, but this hookup is completely different than what is pictured in the manual.

[MRS. CLEAN]

The appliguy is the GREATEST! He has walked me through two washing machine repairs for fraction of the cost of hiring someone.

He will help you. Get the brand and model no. and he will have the right answer for you.

[Nil]

On 18 Jul 2008, "MRS. CLEAN" wrote in alt.home.repair:

Thanks, that looks promising. I'll check it out.

[Stormin Mormon]

Please remove the entire back. Abotu six inches tall, by the width of the fride. In the lower right (facing the back) should be the water valve.

[Stormin Mormon]

[Stormin Mormon]

Pic four and five are the water valve. Five is more close up. The inlet threads on top. and clearly visible.

The water inlet threads to a 1/8 inch copper tubing compression nut and ferrule.

[trader4]

You've found the water inlet. That should connect to 1/4 copper tubing using a ferrule and compression nut. I just installed a fridge and used one of the stainless steel flexible hoses to do the connection. It's a lot easier to move the fridge without worrying about kinking the copper tube or breaking it. I had an existing copper tube, so I secured that to the back wall with a plastic cable clamp and then used a compression union to go from the copper to the new hose. The other end of the hose mates with the water inlet. The hose I bought has a feature where if the hose ruptures, somehow it detects the surge and shuts itself off. Exactly how well that works or how useful it is, I don't know, but it basicly came for free with the hose.

[willshak]

My last two ice maker fridges were recessed in the cabinetry and there was no way to get to the rear of the fridge before it was fully pulled out past the cabinetry. Both of these fridges had 1/4" plastic tubing for the supply. It made it a lot easier to pull out the fridge to make repairs, etc. With the plastic tubing, there is no kinking of the tube, stress on the fittings, or the need to re-roll the tubing when putting the fridge back.

[Nil]

A belated thanks to all the good responses to my question. The icemaker water hookup was, indeed behind the back access panel as in these pictures, not exposed like was shown in the manual.

Everything's connected and working. I haven't had an icemaker for decades, and while it's not essential, it's nice to have plenty of the stuff and not have to be cracking trays when it's least convenient.

On 17 Jul 2008, Nil wrote in alt.home.repair: