I've got a 5-1/2 year old Jenn-Air side-by-side fridge. We recently noticed that the right door (refrigerator side) is misaligned with the frame to the point that there is a gap in the seal towards the bottom in the center (non-hinged side).
This isn't about the seal being compressed differently as you work around the door: the metal-to-metal distance is much greater at the bottom than the top, measured as you're closing the fridge.
As far as I can tell, the only adjustments that I can make are (1) the leveling screws at the bottom front and (2) the top hinge adjustment. Playing around with these doesn't solve the problem.
Any suggestions? I don't see anything else to adjust and don't understand how this could have happened, as I wouldn't expect metal to warp.
Worn hinge, worn hinge washer, worn hinge ride could allow the door to shift a bit.
Top hinge screws can be loosened to move the door left/right or in and out a bit as well. Screws under the door gasket can be loosened to twist the door a bit if that adjustement is required.
OK, that model is covered by my manual, although it's a different model than mine. Section 3, Cabinet and Related Components, pages 3-2 to 3-4. There's not a whole lot here, but it looks like both hinges are somewhat adjustable. The picture mentioned only shows the location of the magnetic strips, outside of the balloon seal.
To enhance its appearance and maintain efficient performance, the refrigerator should be level. The front wheels were adjusted at the factory so the doors were properly aligned and the cabinet level. However, jarring in transit, or standing the refrigerator on uneven floors may cause the doors to shift out of alignment. If front alignment is necessary, adjust the wheel with a hex head driver. Clockwise raises the cabinet, counter-clockwise lowers the cabinet. If front wheels are not adjustable, use leveling legs to level.
Door Seal
The drawing shows a view of the magnetic door seal used on all models mentioned in this manual. The magnetic strips are attracted to the metal cabinet front, providing an excellent seal around the entire door. A visual inspection of the door seal while opening and closing will reveal any areas of poor seal. You will notice a slight expwansion and compression of the seal bellows as the door is opened and closed.
[drawing]
Toe-in & Toe-out Adjustments
To seal evenly around the entire door, the seal must make contact at the top and bottom at the same time. For this reason, the door, when ajar, should not toe-in or toe-out. To correct a toe-in or toe-out condition, first check that the hinge-side of the door is parallel with the cabinet, then proceed as follows:
1) Check the cabinet levelers and adjustable wheels. Raising the handle side may correct a toe-out; lowering may correct a toe-in.
2) Loosen all inner panel mounting screws along the top, bottom and handle side of the door. Do not loosen the screws along the hinge side.
3) Hold the corner that toes-in stationary, and push in on the toe-out corner until the door is lined parallel with the cabinet.
4) Open and close the door several times to ensure a proper fit. If necessary, repeat steps 2 and 3.
5) Tighten all loosened screws.
Hinge Adjustments
Hinge adjustments are necessary when:
1) The seal is not sealed sufficiently along the hinge side of the door.
2) The seal is compressed more than 1/16" on the hinge side (causing a poor seal elsewhere around the top.)
3) The distance between the door and cabinet is greater at the top than it is at the bottom, or vice versa.
4) The hinge side of the door is not 1/16" out past the side of the cabinet (when measured from the side of the cabinet), or when the door panel top is not 7/64" above the cabinet top.
5) If one or more of these conditions exist, adjust one or both hinges to correct the trouble. Raising the hinge side may correct a door sag.
Door Alignment
The cabinet door on all models is in correct alignment when:
1) The hinge side of the door is an equal distance from the cabinet flange at the top and bottom.
2) The gasket seals smoothly and is compressed no more than 1/16" along the hinge side with the door closed.
3) The door lines up with the side of the cabinet (viewed from the front). The door panel is parallel with the cabinet top.
In many cases, leveling the refrigerator will eliminate the need for cabinet door adjustments. Ensure that the refrigerator is plumb by checking all edges as well as both sides of the cabinet with a carpenter's level.
The manual for your model won't come up on the JennAir web site, but I found one close with some installtion tips and such that may help with any adjustments....
OK, I'm making progress. I loosened the screws behind the gasket and retighted while putting some 'twist' on the door. Helped a lot! The bad news is now the gasket doesn't want to seat up against the plastic on the inside of the door. Is that fixable or have I deformed it to the point of needing a new gasket?
I don't think that I could take a meaningful photo. The problem is that, when you measure the gasket width with the door open (so there's no pressure on it) it's thinner at the top. I assume that it became more compressed over time as the top of the door (handle side) was closer to the frame than the bottom. So now that the door has been aligned so that the door to frame distance is about the same, top and bottom, the gasket connects at the bottom but not at the top.
Ooops! I just posted a rely to the 'can you include a photo' question that's not going to make any sense. I currently have two problems:
(1) gasket doesn't connect with frame at top of door, as explained in previous post; (2) gasket doesn't connect with 'inner' part of door (plastic piece with shelves' at all points.
I'll try the hair dryer thing for (2) and maybe try tweaking the door frame some more for (1).
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.