I've been using J-B Weld for years. When I went to buy some new tubes today, I noticed the borg also carries J-B Kwik which claims a 4 minute set time, 4 hour cure.
My gut tells me that a longer set and cure time (J-B Weld - 15 hour cure) would be better/stronger, but I ain't no chemist.
Any thoughts on the matter? Is J-B Kwik just as good as J-B Weld when both have cured completely?
I used the JB Kwik stuff, and it is as good as the JB Weld. When I want to fix something, there's no use of just not letting it sit for 24 hours. Only thing I can see is that it is a slightly different color (darker) and it sits up a little faster, which would help if you're using it in a location that is going to sag.
I'd say they both would be cured in 24 hours.
Steve
JB "Weld" is simply epoxy and filler.
Your intuition is correct. Faster setting epoxy is weaker than slower setting, both in compressive strength and bond strength.
See the excellent downloadable manuals on epoxy products and applications:
Thanks for the response. I am very familiar with epoxies and fillers. I have the West Systems pump setup, but I only use it when I need more than a little bit.
Thanks again.
You are correct. The longer the cure takes, the better the bond. I won't use jbquik.
Sometimes I hold things together with Ambroid Cement, which dries in less than 5 mintues (although I give it a half hour to "cure") and then put on expoxy to really hold it. I make sure there are plenty of bonding places that the Ambroid Cement** isn't touching.
**Available at hobby stores only. Comes in one tube, pretty strong but can be broken apart later if need be."DerbyDad03" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@s48g2000cws.googlegroups.com:
longer curing epoxies are stronger. also,epoxies don't FULLY cure(max strength) until a couple of weeks later;the time they give for "cure" is for "can be handled"
One thing;the quick cure stuff will not have as much time to RUN(flow) as the long-cure J-B Weld.
"DerbyDad03" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@a75g2000cwd.googlegroups.com:
For smaller measures of epoxy resin and hardener,you can use those oral syringes the pharmacies have for dispensing medicines.They're pretty inexpensive,use one for resin,another for hardener. I also have some small 1 oz graduated cups made for measuring medicines;they are calibrated in cc's,mL,drams,and fractions of oz.You can buy a stack of 100 for less than $10 at WalMart.They are GREAT for measuring/mixing small amounts of epoxy.I just pour in the resin to the desired amt,and the hardener on top to its required amt,and stir.
I use RAKA(similar to West),J-B Weld,and Hysol 608 epoxies. (used some tonight!)
West System has a special kit that allows you to accurately mix tiny batches.
CWM
SIMPLY EPOXY?!??! JB Weld is the substance which holds the universe together!
Well, that and duct tape.
-rev
This is when i uSUALLY bring up PC-70, which seems to be a lot like JB Weld, but it doesnt' run and has to be smoothed with a wet finger. It doesn't automatically become as smooth as JB Weld does.
mm wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
smoothing works better using rubbing alcohol on your finger.
Rubbing alcohol contains OIL
CWM
?? Not my rubbing alcohol! 70% Isopropyl Alcohol + 30% water.
Define "water" as used on that label. There is oil in rubbing alcohol.
CWM
Whatever you say. Have it your way. My PhD in Chemistry obviously carries with it no knowledge.
Charlie Morgan wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
so does the skin of your finger.
My isopropyl alk hs no oil. Better go read the labels in the pharmacy.
You are right, your degree carries no knowledge about the issue. The issue is about definitions and product labels. You might want to ask Jim Yanik and others exactly what he/they call rubbing alcohol. Many people call standard 70% isopropyl alcohol "rubbing alcohol."
Standard 70 % isopropyl alcohol as bought in drug and grocery stores contains no oil (at least the label gives no indication of any oil). Just look at the ingredients on the label. If one doesn't want to believe that, then test it for oil.
What magic oil is that, which does not appear on an ingredients label, and which mixes with water and alcohol?
Rubbing alcohol is not pure, denatured is a bit better, Rubbing alcohol leaves a visable residue , possibly its the poison in it. JB weld does not recomend at all Alcohol to clean surfaces because of possible petroleum products in it. Rubbing alcohol wont clean a camera lens correctly.
I just did a repair with JB weld in 48hrs at 10-20f it cured hard, JB says it cures to -60f
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