Island Countertop Overhang Problem

[gobofraggle]

I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. Once the quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the entire length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. So I had the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. But to cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets. (That nine inches comprises the overhang.) Would this look silly, or can what's above the countertop act "independently" of what's below the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

(Let me know if you have trouble getting to the pics.)

[ythread]

Shell out the extra $$ to get it right.

[CraigT]

What about recreating a 45 degree angle on the countertop where it meets the laid down backsplash, just like the leading edge has? Although, I have no idea what the cost would be to recut it.

This way the only seam would be a small vertical one, close to the wall.

[Wayne Boatwright]

On Tue 08 Jul 2008 02:19:52a, ythread told us...

I agree. But, is that a microwave for dwarfs? No way I'd ever use it sitting practically on the floor.

[HeyBub]

Think about supporting a one-foot overhang of marble. I'd hate to see a hunk break off. Even 9" is scary.

[gobofraggle]

I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. Once the quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the entire length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. So I had the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. But to cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets. (That nine inches comprises the overhang.) Would this look silly, or can what's above the countertop act "independently" of what's below the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

(Let me know if you have trouble getting to the pics.)

[dreamingjen]

I made a poor design choice and ordered an island/peninsula in my kitchen with a 9" overhang for use as a breakfast bar. Once the quartz countertop was installed, it was obvious that 9" was too shallow, and I should have gone for at least 12" or 13" to make it a comfortable place to eat.

So, I need some help on options. I can replace the piece of countertop for $900, which is really expensive to me, so I'm trying to think of a "workaround".

My thought is to pull the countertop forward 4" and then fill the gap with the existing 4" backsplash (of the same material), laid on the flat. However, that would create a visible seam running the entire length of the countertop (63") where the two pieces join. So I had the thought to cover the seam with a long "appliance garage" that would sit directly on top of the counter and cover the seam. But to cover the entire seam, the cabinetry would have to extend to the edge of the countertop, which is 9" beyond the edge of the base cabinets. (That nine inches comprises the overhang.) Would this look silly, or can what's above the countertop act "independently" of what's below the cabinet, design-wise?

I did a Photoshop mockup of the two design possibilities, with one showing a fictitious representation of the seam that would be visible if the cabinetry did not extend to the edge. (See the blue arrow.)

Any ideas??

(Let me know if you have trouble getting to the pics.)

[franz fripplfrappl]

Not exactly sure of the logistics, but could you affix a 4-5" wide edging to the counter? It could be of the same material or wood or something else that'd fit in nicely with your look. I'm sure there are adhesives and methods for doing this. one issue may be whether the counter edge becomes susceptible to downward pressure if someone leans on it.

If it's too wide, will you still have easy and convenient access to base cabinets and what they hold?

[franz fripplfrappl]

Just had another thought...

Remove the countertop and make a correctly sized counter of 3/4" plywood. Attach that and then attach the original countertop to it. The plywood that extends beyond the edge would give you the support you need to extent the countertop outwards. The choice of materials and design could suit your needs and decor. In the end you would end up with a counter of the desired width and a decorative border/edge. If done right, no one would notice the underlayment.

[gobofraggle]

=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

What I'm concerned about, though, are visible seams if I were to add an additional countertop piece. Supported or unsupported, plywood or not, adding those 4" will create a seam which I would need to cover with something. So the question is, can I cover it with this "appliance garage", or would it look silly to have it extend all the way to the edge of the countertop (disregarding the measurements of the base cabinets beneath)?

[franz fripplfrappl]

I bet if you looked long enough, you'd find a seam filler that could be blended sufficiently as to disappear.

Check with someone selling headstones or someone who works with marble on how to repair or seam.

The other choice to consider is to integrate the seam into the design and fill it with something that looks good or decorative. Then all you'd need to do is make sure the surfaces were even and smooth.

Whatever you do about the seam, both pieces should be immobilized to eliminate possibility of any movement which might weaken the patch and make things crack.

Not too fond of appliance garages or other clutter on a counter. That's your choice. Number 1 question to you: Can you live with it?

[Mikepier]

When I did my kitchen over, I questioned whether to put an 8" or 12" overhang on my peninsula. I went with 12" and I'm glad I did. Unfortunately in your case your going to have to bite the bullet and ante up for a new slab of granite. Do not do a patch job like you described, it will not look nice. Theres a right way to do things and a wrong way. When you put in a new piece of granite, you'll forget about the $900 and enjoy the kitchen.

Or you can live with the 9" overhang.

[trader4]

I agree. In the grand scheme of things, $900 to fix a mistake right seems like a reasonable solution. And IMO, it's not worth hacking around with something that is obvious and affects the re-sale value of the house.

[RickH]

Can you re-use the old slab in a bathroom or basement countertop project? Then the $900 wont hurt so much.

[charlie]

Can you re-use the old slab in a bathroom or basement countertop project? Then the $900 wont hurt so much.

[dpb]

[e-mail] wrote: ...

W/O seeing the actual piece, it's hard to know for certain, but I'd certainly think either a contrasting piece or matching worked in (and not necessarily at the back but in the middle, even, w/ a good job of seaming would/could be made to be a feature rather than a flaw.

[Mikepier]

I don't think you can make the seam in the middle. If you did then you need a support for the 12" overhang . If you get a new piece, it will span the entire 24" of counter, then overhang 12", so you don't need any support legs.

[jthread]

What I'm concerned about, though, are visible seams if I were to add an additional countertop piece. Supported or unsupported, plywood or not, adding those 4" will create a seam which I would need to cover with something. So the question is, can I cover it with this "appliance garage", or would it look silly to have it extend all the way to the edge of the countertop (disregarding the measurements of the base cabinets beneath)?

=========================================

After reading some of the other responses you might be able to match the seam up so the seam isn't as noticeable. Other than that I like the idea of using the counter somewhere else or selling it on craigslist too. But is sounds to me like you've already made your mind up and you want us to agree with your decision. If that is the case just do it and see how it comes out. You can change it later if you don't like it.

[dpb]

Mikepier wrote: ...

I don't know that that is _necessarily_ so. OP doesn't say how wide the overall piece is, only that he has only a 9" overhang.

There are several options for fastening the piece down other than its own weight...

--

[SteveB]

Oh, good grief. A free post would have saved the OP bigtime. Without getting too long and risking cracking, overhangs should be as big as possible. Both for the comfort of people sitting there in the future, but also for stool storage, and a dozen other reasons I can't think of right now. And at the time of initial construction, cheap, cheap, cheap, even if you want one that will require a 4x4 cantilever.

Yup, either bite the bullet or live with it. And learn from it, which I don't need to say............

Steve