Installing Bead Board Panels


Dear NG,
This is my first post to this group and I'm sure not the last. What a gold mine of information here. I have some tools, but I'm not very good with them! I've layed lots of tile and hardwood floor, and most jobs have looked pretty good. But, I know why I'm a biologist and not a finish carpenter! My first question for the group - is there any way to exchange pictures with other members or upload to a server like you can do on Yahoo groups? The second thing I should probably mention is I don't know a lot of the terminology and slang, so please be patient if I ask a lot of questions. Finally, please let me know if there is a more appropriate place to post this message.
Here's my project. I'm installing some of those precut (like 30 or 36" tall by 5' long) finished bead boards that you can get at Lowes in a hallway. I have an outside corner to deal with. I found a piece of trim with a lip on it the thickness of the bead board that will fit nicely on top of the bead board. As for the corner, I realized that if I run the board clear to the end of the wall and put an outside corner trim over it, then I'm in trouble with the top trim. There would be no way to get the top trim over the corner trim, as the corner trim sits on top of the board making it impossible for the top trim with a 3/16" lip to cover what now is nearly 1/2" projection. Plan b was to install the corner trim first and then butt the bead board up against the corner trim, effectively eliminating the problem of different heights. Can anyone suggest other ideas?
Tonk
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Could you install the top trim first and the corner bead last? The top of the corner bead would touch the bottom of the top trim. If the top trim is shaped such that the top of the corner bead is exposed, sand a bevel or roudover on the top of the corner bead so it ends up as the same thickness as the bottom of the top trim.
And remember: caulk is our friend! If you are going to be painting the bead board, filling any gaps with paintable caulk will really improve the look and hide any imperfections.
Although you didn't ask, I'm assumng you are planning to miter the top trim at 45 degress for a finished look at the inside and outside corners.
Tonk wrote:

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DerbyDad03 wrote:

love to see that picture if he didnt miter LOL
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Components that I have to work with: corner trim ~1/4" thick, bottom of top trim ~1/4" thick, bead board ~1/4" thick.
Two install scenarios: 1st intall bead board all the way to the corner 2nd install the top trim 3rd install the corner trim
Problem: having installed the corner trim over the bead board, the corner trim now projects ~1/2 from the wall, while the bottom of the top trim is flush with the top of the bead board. Corner trim extends ~ 1/4" beyond the bottom of the top trim - UGLY.
Second install option:
1st install corner trim 2nd install bead board (flush against corner trim 3rd install top trim.
Since all parts are the same thickness, no problem.
And yes, I plan to mitre the corners for a finihsed look!
DerbyDad03 wrote:

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Could you install the top trim first and the corner bead last? The top of the corner bead would touch the bottom of the top trim. If the top trim is shaped such that the top of the corner bead is exposed, sand a bevel or roudover on the top of the corner bead so it ends up as the same thickness as the bottom of the top trim.
And remember: caulk is our friend! If you are going to be painting the bead board, filling any gaps with paintable caulk will really improve the look and hide any imperfections.
Although you didn't ask, I'm assuming you are planning to miter the top trim at 45 degress for a finished look at the inside and outside corners.
Tonk wrote:

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Tonk wrote:

Normally you use a chair rail molding as the top trim on beadboard and it's fairly hefty and should cover corner bead. Always install top trim first and cut corner to fit.
alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking this is where I post pictures
RV
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RV - thanks for the reply.
two follow-up questions.
I gather that you're suggesting that I install the corner trim over the bead board? Is that standard? Also, the will project the corner trim out the thickness of the bead board. That seems like that would make it more difficult (if not impossible) to end up with a nice neat joint/intersection with the bottom of the chair rail. All the chair rail that I've seen is tapered (thick part on top) from 5/8 to 3/4 down to 1/4 or so. With the tapered chair rail, how in the world do you neatly tie the corner piece in?
Also, MSN is my ISP and apparently I do not have access to the USENET newsgroups such as alt.binaries.pictures... Any other suggestions?
Mike
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Tonk spake thus:

Just find someplace on the web to upload the pix (a quick search will locate many, many free sites), then post a link to the picture(s) in your message here.
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David - any chance you might give me an example or two of these web sites that allow you to upload pics for free?
Thanks much!
Mike David Nebenzahl wrote:

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Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question, but why not use a router with a roundover bit to handle the transition at the corner (routering the beadboard, of course), and forget about the trim piece?
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Andy,
I really appreciate the time. I don't think you misunderstood. You're only mistake is assuming that I know more than I do! LOL. I would really appreciate it if you could elaborate on your response. I don't own a router (yet!), so a roundover bit is foreign to me.
Mike Andy Hill wrote:

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