Installing an ice maker

[James Kilton]

Hello,

I recently moved into a town house that doesn't have an automatic ice maker, and I'm one of those people that fills my glass with ice so I'm really hurting here. The fridge is equipped to handle one so that's not a concern, but the issue is that it's on the opposite side of the kitchen relative to the sink so I'm assuming a water line is going to have to be run from the basement.

I've never done anything like this and will likely have to hire someone, but first I'm hoping to find out how complex of a job it is likely to be. I'd just like to know what to expect before going in, if possible. Do I have to have a survey done to ascertain what I'm getting into here or can generalizations such as "Usually it takes on the order of X hours" be made?

Thanks, James

[Curmudgeon]

If you have access to a basement and the sink's cold water line, it's a simple job...maybe 20-30 minutes top. You just have to drill one hole in the floor behind the fridge; run some flexible 1/2" copper water line with some compression fittings. If you can drill the hole, any plumbing clerk at Home Depot can tell you how to hook up the line and they have kits with everything you need.

[lindy]

Would suggest you use 1/4 tubing.

[jeff]

Hi,

Finished basement, open basement, full size?? With an open full sized basement we can drill a hole in the floor, run a new line and install a shut off in approx an hour or so.

Some "how to" tips on running a water for the refrigerator icemaker....

jeff. Appliance Repair Aid

[Curmudgeon]

Yes...I mistyped...1/4" is fine.

[John Gold]

I did this recently and it wasn't hard at all..

The icemaker installed easily in the freezer and the copper line was easily snaked through a hole in the floor to a cold water line in the basement.

One thing I did on the advice of a plumber friend was to sweat a compression valve onto the cold water line instead of using the saddle-style piercing valve that came with the install kit. I was told the saddle-style valves can leak.

[usenet user]

How do you connect the copper line (1/4" ?) to the 1/2" CPVC then? I once looked at HD, but couldn't find it. The sales person could not find either, and give that kit.

John Gold wrote:

[Dave Harnish]

Hi there, 'Usenet User',

The same saddle valve can be used on PVC that's used on copper. We've done it many times at the request of a homeowner with no problems, although I don't think I'd do it that way in my own house. But then, I'm pretty old- fashioned and don't use PVC in my house either .

You could glue in a tee, and come off a standard shutoff with the adapter for 1/4". Even a standard 'boiler c*ck' valve and a 'garden hose' fitting adapter, like the one seen here:

Btw, I've had the same Supco STV2 saddle valve on our

3/4" copper pipe for well over 20 years, no leaks, no problems.

Just be sure to mount the valve so it pierces the side or top of the pipe, NOT the bottom. If you pierce the bottom, sediment will find its way into the valve screen and cause trouble. Mine's on a vertical run of pipe, and that's best if possible.

Hope that's of some help to you.

God bless,

Dave Harnish Dave's Repair Service New Albany, PA

[e-mail]

570-363-2404

I'm a 32-year pro appliance technician, and love sharing what I've learned - in a FREE Monthly Appliance Tips Newsletter. (Back issues now posted here too!)

John 14:6

[Usenet User]

Thanks Dave.

Looks like going from a CPVC to 1/4" copper is not easy - at least you need to look for several imtermediate fittings to get there.

I guess I'll use the Saddle/Needle kit for the icemaker. Only problem is that the cold water from that line to filter to the refregiator is slow. Can't immagine to wait for a cup of cold water going through that pin hole.

UU

Dave Harnish wrote:

[John Gold]

I was able to find a valve (at HD) that had a 1/2-inch sweat joint on one side and a 1/4 " compression on the other. It took some searching though.

You may be able to find a similar solution for the CPVC.

John