Ice shield roofing membrane ques.

I have looked at some membrane (at 84 lumber) and it was smooth and adhesive on one side, the other side had sand bonded to it, almost like roll roofing rather than felt.
Are all membranes like this? I'd rather just have smooth rubber on the non-adhesive side.
Are there any membranes that are adhesive on both sides?
Dave
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I have looked at some membrane (at 84 lumber) and it was smooth and adhesive on one side, the other side had sand bonded to it, almost like roll roofing rather than felt.
Are all membranes like this? I'd rather just have smooth rubber on the non-adhesive side.
Are there any membranes that are adhesive on both sides?
Dave
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The sanded type is for "roofer security". It affords slightly better slip resistance when wet. I don't believe there are any with adhesive on both sides. Why do you ask? Tom
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I have an odd repair I need to make, and wish to put some membrane in-between the lower- and upper-sheets of metal roofing at a lap joint.
Ideally I'd get some more of the same type metal roofing, cut it into 3' sections, and slide it up under the upper piece, and over the lower piece. I'm deeming this too expensive and labor intensive (a lot of cutting), and don't like my chances of finding exactly the same brand/type/shape of metal roof panel.
The dorks that built the roof on my garage didn't lap the panels very much (I think) and didn't use butyl tape on the lap joint, so all across the roof there is a 65' long leaky joint. In some places the plywood sheathing is rotted a bit and won't hold a screw, so I can't just pull the screws, add the tape, and install new screws.
I'm not going to strip the roof to replace a tiny amount of rot, and need a way to essentially seal the joint, and to seal all the screw holes all the way across. I'd just leave the screws that won't hold out (and fill the holes with roofing spooge, and put screws nearby where they would hold) if I thought I could really plug the holes, but I think that would leak given the shearing motion of the panels as they expand/contract.
I'm also tempted to just run the butyl tape above the screw holes, and at the screw holes, and run new screws above and below the holes that won't hold a screw. Just leave the holes that won't hold a screw empty, and let the tape fill 'em.
I think that sliding new metal sheets in is the best fix, and slipping some membrane in is the 2nd best.
Dave
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Sliding partial sheets of metal would be best, I agree. The butyl tape idea could work, but you'd need some sort of helper to get it slipped into the joint. How about installing some ply underneath the decking (from the inside) to provide some meat for the screws? Tom
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I could, it would just be hell getting to all the spots. I would also prefer to seal the leaks, and let the rotted portions remain completely exposed.
I think I can raise the upper panel enough to slide in tape, or felt, or membrane.
Its going to be 50 and sunny for probably the last weekend here in central NY, so whatever I'm going to do, its timne to do it.
See my roofing thread for another idea I had (I shamelessly bumped it)
-Dave
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anywhere near rochester?

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Mo' like cortland area.
D
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On 26 Oct 2005 12:21:14 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

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