before you pull toilet, confirm does it flush well with a bucket of water??????
if not pull toilet.........
if it flushes fine with a bucket pulling toilet will do no good at all.............
muriatic acid placed carefully will clean out the interior passages of the toilet 20 minutes and 10 bucks if you need saftety glasses.
safe effective fast and cheap. works amazingly well as another poster reported here, i am the one who told him about it:)
when you flush the toilet actually creates a wave that moves the waste solids into the large bottom drain & trap.
but you must have enough flow to start the wave, over time sediment builds up in the interir water passages bowl rim ald slows the flow of fresh water. at some point stuff just swirls around....
watch under the bowl rim, often gunk built up clogging the exit holes.
you can use a coathanger end to open the holes some but the sediment still fills the bowl rim and cant be reached.
put on safety glasses, plunge drain bowl water, sponge is good idea so bowl is completely empty tank water can remain as is.
put funnel in dip tube top pour a cup or two of acid in funnel. and some in bowl no splashing have window open and take deep breathe first, then leave room shut door wait at least 15 minutes.
then return and flush about 15 times to dilute all remaing acid. you will see brown goo, thats the melted sediment.
this really works
ALL that and he might just as well spend the $118 and have a new one.
s
hardware or big box, used for cleaning brick etc
Yeah, and filled up more landfills. Nice. Toilets aren't disposable or biodegradable items, despite what you think.
Cheri, hallerb and Oren can say the acid works.
Oren won't pull a toilet; until he uses the water test - 5 gallons forced in rapidly. If it goes down, there's not a clog?
AHR has experts?!
no thanks necessary but its me bob haller.
I stumbled on to it for a friend who was afraid she needed a new toilet, its nice to help people.
I also promote rock salt micxed with water to kill tree roots in sewers. its cheap and works amazingly well.
glad i could help, bob
professional plumbers wouldnt use acid, there would be little or no profit in it. most would just replace the toilet.........
The muriatic acid solution that was posted here was one of the better tips I've ever had, especially since I had spent $300.00 having my lines snaked not long before that, and the toilet still wasn't flushing right until I tried that tip.When I saved the instructions, I accidently cut off the part that said who suggested it, because I'd like to give him credit. You know who you are, but I don't remember...many thanks to you. Also, this group has been very helpful to me, and I appreciate it very much.
Cheri
And your point is?
s
better
helpful
no thanks necessary but its me bob haller.
I stumbled on to it for a friend who was afraid she needed a new toilet, its nice to help people.
I also promote rock salt micxed with water to kill tree roots in sewers. its cheap and works amazingly well.
glad i could help, bob
****** OK, thanks again. I have saved your name now, so when I post that info I can give you credit.Cheri
I read Bob's tip here. One day I was going to try it out. I use acid for my pool and had some handy. My neighbor had a rental property going on the market, so he asked me to do some handy stuff.
A toilet had a leak at the tank bolt - around the washer. It was a slow leak. I found it using a paper towel and flushing the toilet a few times. BEFORE I could even work one this nasty thing I poured some acid in the bowl to start a cleaning process :-))
So, I removed the tank for the bolt replacement kit. While I had the tank off I poured muriatic acid directly in the (throat?) bowl rim.
Allowed that to work; suddenly I look down and see an object. Get my glasses out, grabbed the needle nose pliers and then pulled a syringe out of the rim of the bowl. The acid had floated the syringe back towards the throat and I could see it.
We have hard water, and acid will cut it from the rim holes. Faster than using a coat hanger:)
BTW, It was a drug house so I can see how they must have hidden the needle in the tank and it found it's way into the bowl rim, past the flapper. A bad flush can then be any object in the tank getting past the flapper and into the rim.
Did they also tell you Muratic Acid will corrode China and abs pipe so use carefully , not the best thing to do to often don.t recomend to people as there is some danger of boil up in the boil if the water you use is to hot . Also open your window as sulpharic acid fumes will be produced. Have only used once in 27 yrs of plumbing if you know how to snake you won't need to.
You can't put a snake up a bowl rim, right? Yes acid vs use in a toilet has been discussed here - previous.
as i said you put it in wait 15 minutes and flush 15 times, normally toilet water isnt hot, and i always say open window take deep breathe, poor get out shut door.
snake cant clean interior sediment..........
acid sounds scary but really it isnt, and no worse than other stuff like drain cleaner
Muriatic acid does not affect any of the usual plastics, and I don't see a problem with ABS. Once mixed with water, it produces only very minimal fumes. (More concentrated muriatic acid produces more significant fumes, though not in huge amounts.) Its fumes are not anything sulfuric, but hydrogen chloride (which are harmful if inhaled in strong concentrations - they form hydrochloric acid in lungs and anyplace else wet/moist).
Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. Freshman college chemistry classes and some highschool chemistry classes have students using hydrochloric acid in 6-molar concentration, which has pH less than zero. However, a skin splash of this is pretty much a non-event if it is rinsed off right away. I would not want to get it in my eyes - but they say it's not the worst thing that can happen - they say strong alkalis are worse on skin and eyes, and have greater urgency to rinse away and neutralize with weak opposite. (Strong oxidizing acids such as nitric are worse, and concentrated sulfuric also causes nasty dehydration reactions, including carbonization of sugar. Battery acid is sulfuric, but not concentrated enough to carbonize sugar. The bad effects here are mainly from chemical aspects other than acidity, and not problems of muriatic/hydrochloric.)
I would worry about china, and use muriatic acid only rarely and keep exposure to limited amount of time and still not be surprised if the finish changes.
Muriatic acid will eat away at iron and most steels. It does not do much to copper, but quickly dissolves copper oxide and a few other copper corrosion products such as copper carbonate - and metal oxides and metal carbonates in general. It very slowly attacks solder - so it should be flushed away with very generous amounts of water after a reasonable amount of time. Copper pipes in older/worse condition may sometimes have a solder joint crack or some other little gap plugged up with corrosion that is easily dissolved by acid - and such flaws may start leaking when or shortly after you use the acid. I don't consider this common, but still something to watch for. (Though in my experience drain pipes are usually not copper.)
A few municipalities (primarily Chicago and Philadelphia IIRC) have plumbing codes requiring iron/steel drain pipes from homes to sewer lines. The politically powerful plumbers union lobbies to maintain requirement for heavier weight pipes that require more man-hours in those cities. I would not leave acid sitting in one of those drain lines - flush away with *a lot* of water after several minutes or a fraction of an hour, and still use acid rarely.
Sulfuric acid is sold to plumbers for unclogging pipes. When mixed with water to a concentration much less than something like 84% H2SO4 16% H2O by weight, or close to 75% H2SO4 25% H2O by volume, it loses most of its nasty effects other than acidity (pH probably still something like -.7 at that point as an educated guess).
However, even still, strong acids when mixed with water may generate enough heat to be a problem. But I see at most minor problem here from muriatic, since it already contains a fair amount of water. Pure HCL is not even liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure - it is a gas, and liquid hydrochloric is a good part water!
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Do as you oughtta - add acid to water To get your eyes blasted, add water to acid
(Adding small amounts of water to strong acid can cause the mixture to boil and spatter. Not-so-small amounts of water added to strong acid can occaisionally still be a problem if boiling starts before enough water mixes in to cool things. Even if you add acid to water, if you do this in a chemistry lab you should stir/mix to whatever extent is feasible to minimize significant "hotspots" of slightly diluted acid.)
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- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
Similar occurrings here.
I've taken to leaving what I'll call a "dandelion weeder", looks like a big screwdriver but with V-shaped head, on floor near toilet, making it possible to break up the occasional truly huge and almost as hard as rock "bombs".
I also know that a change of diet and of water, like when on a trip out of the country, can result in several days of nothing at all, and then EL GRANDE that no toilet, other than an outdoor latrine, can handle.
Embarrassing -- having to ask for a hammer and chisel! :-)
(BTW, that was a joke, those last three words)
David
Sounds good -- what's the $10 for -- and what do you do with it?
Thanks,
David
Questions to expert:
1: HOW MUCH rock salt, water, etc to kill roots.And how do you actually do it?
Won't the mix just run on over the root and keep going downhill. How to make it stay there surrounding root, so it gets taken-up by it?
2: Muriatic Acid: same questions, basically:How much, for how long, etc.
Dangers?
3: As for long snakes (toilet-snakes!), don't they come with a bent hollow tube through which you feed the snake down the hole, thus keeping away any *visible* scratches?Thanks
David
Flush it. Cash excites the plumbing, shaking the clog loose.
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