HVAC air intake near gas heater

the situation.

I have pictures of almost the entire home on flickr, mostly private pictures, for situations like this. I went wild w/the digital camera.

if what looks like a six inch round pipe between the return air duct and the (furnace/air handler/evaporator coil) is open at the bottom where it is behind the "L" shaped portion of the return air duct.

Not sure what you mean by open. As I recall, it mates up to the duct work there. I'll have to check when I get back to the house.

the roof and has a rain cap, you're in good shape as far as preventing combustion byproducts being drawn into the house.

Yes, this goes to the roof and has a rain cap. I'm assuming this opening allows combustion gases to vent out through it? I really don't know this stuff at all.

finished with this equipment now closed in. Your hiring of a duct man to seal off the return air vent and run a new return into the finished area is the proper course of action and you should have no problems.

He's coming out Sat., and will do the work the Sat. after.

Thanks all! I have a carbon monoxide detector upstairs, which has never gone past 0. I have dogs in the house and would hate for something to happen the times I am gone.

Reply to
edavid3001
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I solved them with my first post. Yer Welcome!

Reply to
<kjpro

Thousands... I see it all the time.

There are hacks everywhere! :-(

Reply to
<kjpro

Another misconception of safety...

Check to see when your detector will signal a warning.

Reply to
<kjpro

I have to complement you for being "AWARE" and curious. So many people have been harmed because of ignorance of their environment. Ignorance is not a dirty word, I&#39;m ignorant about a lot of things (like producing a Broadway play, don&#39;t know a thing about it) but I can read and ask questions. Ignorant means you don&#39;t know but you can learn, stupid means no way. Keep on asking questions and learning then one day you&#39;ll be the one people look to for answers.

[8~{} Uncle Monster
Reply to
Uncle Monster

wrote in news:45da6$46cdaeec$9440c41e$9217 @STARBAND.NET:

Point out one lie. There isn&#39;t a single one. You had to ask why a liquid line won&#39;t sweat and you can&#39;t provide a clear technical explanation of the return duct function.

It&#39;s real simple. Go to a dictionary. Look-up "effect" and "affect." Note the difference. Nothing made up at all. Sorry that you can&#39;t admit your errors and move on.

Reply to
Clark

So, you want to bring in your lies from another thread, Eh? I NEVER asked WHY a LL would sweat. But, you made it very clear that you know nothing about mini-splits!

Nothing I have posted in this thread is inaccurate either, so why don&#39;t you STFU.

Just like your butt buddy with the "you" for "your"... But, since that&#39;s all you got, run with it, right?

My statements are facts, I&#39;m sorry that you&#39;re incompetent and can&#39;t keep up in a technical discussion.

Reply to
<kjpro

Thanks all. I wasn&#39;t sure if I was misunderstanding the terms or not. If I was being paranoid or if it was a valid concern. For $150US it just makes sense to play it safe and port it correctly.

To give the builder the benefit of the doubt, it&#39;s possible the HVAC guy just didn&#39;t realize the basement was to be unfinished. His teams work on many homes at the same time. Possibly he was waiting until the basement work began before running the cold air returns? By unfinished, I mean I didn&#39;t even have posts. It was steel beam supported. Might explain why the vents weren&#39;t attached when I moved in. I find it interesting that none of the inspections was there anything said.

The air vent questioned above -- that actually doesn&#39;t attach to anything. It goes to about 6" above the floor and is just open.

This is the CO detector I have;

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It doesn&#39;t start reading anything until 30PPM. Why is this a false sense of security? I realize it&#39;s only monitoring CO at the location it&#39;s at, but at least I have something. I did this because the gas fire place gives off a bad smell. When power is out, that&#39;s what we use for heat. I was concerned about that. But this device has never gone over 0.

Again, thanks!

Reply to
edavid3001

wrote in news:80746$46cef3a8$9440c41e$ snipped-for-privacy@STARBAND.NET:

Saying something "effects" the return duct is inaccurate and it demonstrates your incompetence. Nothing you can say will change those simple facts. Oh, also don&#39;t tell me what to do dumbass.

No, that&#39;s not correct. You were attempting to communicate and failed miserably. So sorry but that&#39;s just the way it is.

Let&#39;s see here now. You don&#39;t know why a liquid line won&#39;t sweat and you can&#39;t tell the difference between an "effect" and an "affect." Ok. Now you want to say I&#39;m incompetent. Wow. You have a serious reality disconnect there bud. Get help now!

Reply to
Clark

My post was dead on accurate. Nothing you can do or say will change that fact!

I know the way it is, you&#39;re a complete moron. Try all you want, nothing will change this fact either.

Ok Dipshit, it was a technical discussion on mini-splits, that you know nothing about. But, a LL can indeed sweat, under the right conditions.

You can argue all you want, you don&#39;t know the facts and will never be capable of understanding them. So, please refrain from posting more of your lies on the subject.

Reply to
<kjpro

Just looked at your photo&#39;s.

#1 Fix the return issue. #2 Both gas lines need a drip leg. #3 Electrical run needs to be secured. #4 I would remove the PVC from the water heater relief valve. #5 Install a media air filter.

Reply to
<kjpro

wrote in news:55549$46d06373$9440c41e$28949 @STARBAND.NET:

$13704

A liquid line will not sweat. If it is sweating then it isn&#39;t a liquid line. Got it?

I haven&#39;t posted a single lie. Letseeherenow, you don&#39;t know why a liquid line won&#39;t sweat and you refuse to acknowledge the difference between "affect" and "effect." Just who is the story teller? Hmmmm?

Reply to
Clark

wrote in news:a6b52$46d1208a$9440c41e$16371 @STARBAND.NET:

That is a false statement. A drip leg requirement depends on local code.

No need at to remove PVC at all since copper extends more than 24" from T&P.

Some "pro"

Reply to
Clark

Agreed.

I have no idea what that is.

What electrical runs? The only electric in the picture is in the light blue flexible conduit to the HVAC and the black cable on the right that runs down the sump pump PVC to the sump pump itself. The blue thing near the water heater *was* a loose water line to the water purification system, which was put in place after the picture was taken.

No. It&#39;s not physically attached and there is room for overflow if the PVC gets blocked. It&#39;s tested weekly. The pressure valve goes out and I end up with a flooded basement again. This directs it to the sump pump. The PVC is rated to handle the temperatures involved.

Thank you for the suggestion.

Reply to
edavid3001

That&#39;s like saying if your water heater goes out, the hot supply line isn&#39;t the hot supply line anymore. You&#39;re so clueless that you could start school all over again.

I used an &#39;e&#39; for an &#39;a&#39;... however, that doesn&#39;t make my post inaccurate. I&#39;m sorry you&#39;re to incompetent to understand this.

BTW, you have posted lie after lie... it just keeps growing.

Reply to
<kjpro

BULLSHIT, read the f****ng manufacture&#39;s installation instructions or the IMC.

You&#39;re really showing your incompetence.

I stated that I would remove it... not that it *had* to be removed. Try comprehending what you read next time.

Yes I am, unlike yourself.

Reply to
<kjpro

It&#39;s a line that hangs down from a tee connection to catch debris. This way it doesn&#39;t travel into the gas valve.

Furnace electrical...

If you check it weekly then it&#39;s ok... However, I would like to know if the valve dripping.

No problem, maybe in the process &#39;Clark&#39; can learn something too... :-)

Reply to
<kjpro

wrote in news:daed2$46d44a5e$9440c41e$8106 @STARBAND.NET:

So, you don&#39;t have it yet. A compressor discharge line will not sweat. A liquid line will not sweat. If it&#39;s sweating then it is something else. Don&#39;t try to understand it, just accept it.

inaccurate.

Actually it does. Now if "effect" meant the same as "affect" then your post might be accurate. Got it?

Sure thing liquid line boi. Just keep dancing to my tune.

Reply to
Clark

wrote in news:cb090$46d44b3d$9440c41e$8222 @STARBAND.NET:

No, it&#39;s not bullshit. You have a lot to learn. Drip legs are frequently not required.

Ahem. Pretty sensitive there dancing monkey boi. Why even try to defend yourself? That inferiority complex is really showing now.

No you are not a pro by any measure. You&#39;re simply a hot bag of fetid gas.

Reply to
Clark

news:125e3$46ccf073$9440c41e$9970

Sorry, I don&#39;t accept fiction for facts. Fact is, a LL can sweat under the right circumstances.

The other fact, is that you&#39;re so far out in left field you couldn&#39;t keep up in the technical discussion. Must suck to be so incompetent that you have to make shit up.

Are you ready for your treat now?

Reply to
<kjpro

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