How to properly use a hammer on nails?

I rarely use hammers & nails as I typically prefer to use screws over nails.

However once in a while I need to use nails.

I have to do some mending of framing in the attic and I need to nail wood gussets to a joint. The space in the attic is tight and angle is awkward. I cannot get enough leverage so I end up bending and messing up the nails as I hammer them in. I don't think this is productive...

Is there a proper way to use a hammer to stop the nails from being bent?

or is there a proper tool to do what I am doing without a hammer? I cannot use a nail gun, I need to use 10d nails.

Unless I can use screws to serve the same purpose and drive them using a power drill with a tight angle attachment.

Thanks,

MC

Reply to
MiamiCuse
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You might consider using lag bolts to secure the items. They can be tightened with a wrench since they have a hex head or square head, and that allows tightening in confined spaces.

Reply to
Ken

Yes, practice. :)

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

Screws have their good points- but remember that their shear strength is the weak spot.

I haven't used one- but I have been thinking about picking one up for a tight spot like you've got there- Air palm hammer- $30

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I also saw this one in a sears flyer last week battery operated hammer- $100
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The sears tool might work- but I think I'd spend $30 on a tool and $100 on a compressor before I blew $100 on something that might just get used once.

The right-angle attachment might make getting a good hold on the screw. And I doubt you'd be able to get screws with enough shear strength for your purpose. [especially if you are in Miami where shear strength in attic framing is all important]

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

Nail guns that use a 22 explosive shell drive big nails

Reply to
ransley

-snip-

But will they fit in a space that doesn't allow you much hammer swinging room?

Jim [my pneumatic gun will drive a full headed 3 1/2 inch nail but I wouldn't try to 'touch up' attic framing with it]

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

  1. So long as fasteners hold securely, in hidden locations it does not matter if they are bent or damaged by hammering.
  2. Reconsider what type of fastener you need. You may find screws (set in predrilled holes) or staples are functionally OK in this location -- perhaps even just glue, if appropriately braced/clamped while it sets.
Reply to
Don Phillipson

  1. The force being applied by the hammer to the nail needs to be parallel to the nail.
  2. Hit them square & centered on the nail head
  3. Use a hammer with a waffle pattern on the hammer head
Reply to
dadiOH

Try using a few 'steel' nails in the 'awkward' spots. They don't bend so easily! Also sometimes you can use the flat 'side' of the hammer head; takes longer (more blows) but avoids changing over tools.

Reply to
terry

You might want to look at the various framing ties and brackets made by Simpson supplemented with predrilled blocking or whatever is required and use lag bolts (*not* drywall screws) and a small ratchet to allow you to work in a confined space.

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Reply to
George

There are a few models, one is like a large pistol you pull a trigger, so it fits in tight places and works at angles when there is no room to swing a hammer.

Reply to
ransley

MC-

I was quite handy with a hammer (when younger & much more practiced). As I have gotten older one trick that works for me is a mill faced hammer. The milled face keeps hammer from slipping off the nail head & reduces the tendency to bend the nails.

But in your situation, since this is going to be a "one off" project, I would suggest a palm nailer. I bought my Senco used on ebay but I'm sure Harbor Freight has a cheap knock off.

You could also use a Senco 16 gage 7/16" crown stapler w/ 2" staples. And staple the crap out of the plywood gussets. Based on some strength & stiffness tests I did .......... I figured two staples have "about" the same capacity as one 10d nail.

Another nice thing about staples is that the "trauma" to the wood is a lot less than that for large diameter nails.

cheers Bob

Reply to
BobK207

Rub the hammer head's striking surface on concrete every once in a while to replace the "polished" surface with slight roughness. (That's what I was taught by a carpenter, about 50 years ago.)

Or, get a hammer with a "waffle marked" striking surface.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff Wisnia

I bought one of those when it was on sale, and so far it works great. I still bent a few roofing nails putting up concrete backerboard, but it sure made the job easy. Just another reason to have a good compressor.

Reply to
Bob F

Hi Bob,

I've always wondered about staples, does their shear strength differ in the two direction, parallel to the crown and perpendicular to the crown?

Thanks, Wayne

Reply to
Wayne Whitney

Since this is a mending task, the Simpson connectors will spread the force over a wider area and typically connect faces rather than edges. They can also be "formed" to fit slightly different angles than they start with. The short, fat nails that are used with them are plenty strong. I have used both bright and galvanized versions. A palm nailer is the tool of choice for driving these short nails.

Reply to
Tom Kendrick

Time for you to get an Li Ion impact driver and find out how much hard work you can avoid. Makita (my favorite), Bosch, Milwaukee and DeWalt and many other manufacturers have them in up to 18V. What makes them so useful is the very compact size. You should definitely go for Torx or star drive screws or square drive if your sources for Torx are limited. If your budget is modest, check out Harbor Frieght, of course. By the time you have had your impact driver for a while, your hammer will be used mostly for breaking rocks or smashing beer cans . If you need to build or repair a deck, the ID is the way to go. Even the big hairy construction screws seem to just melt into the wood. It is real easy to drive the screws too deep, so some practice is advised at first. And although screws do tend to pull wood pieces together well. sometimes it helps to pop a clamp on the work until it is well placed. Bottom line, the ID is exactly the tool you need for your project.

Joe

Joe

Reply to
Joe

Drilling a pilot hole will make hammering less frustrating. Even the pros sometimes hit a knot, bend a nail, miss the head, etc. Not done often but you can "tune up" a hammer a little: flatten the face, secure the head, repair the grip, etc. There are times a clamp can be used (instead of a hammer) to drive a nail home. Another alternative is to use a 90-degree chuck to drive screws in close places. Consider square head deck screws.

Reply to
Phisherman

If you like new tools, yesterday at Sears I saw a new Craftsman tool that hammers, its about 12" x 2 wide and round.

Reply to
ransley

IN addition to lag bolts, there are lag screws.

Reply to
mm

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