How to remove roofing nails from below?

It's called an "end cut pliers" e.g.

Depending on how much room you have to get tools in there, you might also be able to just saw them off flush with a reciprocating saw.

e.g.http://www.homaktools.com/062endcutpliers.htm>

I just got an end cut plier and it seems to be able to cut off nail ends but not the screw ends. I think part of the reason is the tight space and I am on a ladder and hence not able to really leverage too much force to really clamp down.

I wonder if a Dremel with a grinding disc would work or not. I saw a show they saw off a galvanized pipe with that - but that's a show and I don't know if it really works or not.

MC

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@d30g2000prg.googlegroups.com:

The Dremel cut-off disks are very fragile. Any side load at all will shatter the disk. You might make a few cuts but will spend more time putting on new disks than actually cutting...

I double that comment!!! MLD

Can you fit a 4 1/2" grinder in there? With a good cutting disc it would work. Screws are harder than nails. Good luck

End cut pliers come in different sizes. I have one that's about 18" long.

e.g.http://www.homaktools.com/062endcutpliers.htm>>

Another part might be that screws are a lot harder than nails.

I think those pipes are made from galvanized candy. Or they're pipes for doll houses. Or they show it when they start, and for 4 seconds in the middle, and when they're done.

Try a 6" Mini Hacksaw from the BORG

Looks like this:

-- Oren

..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

Angle grinder is my tool of choice for the nails if there's access room.

What sort of screws? If they're drywall screws you can grab them with pliers and bend them back and forth and they'll snap off, or you could give them a couple or three swats with a hammer in opposite directions

- same result.

That's about the only solution other than an angle grinder which would get very heavy and awkward to use in close quarters. The 4 1/2 grinder would make quick work of the screws and the end nippers would do the nails or just use the grinder for both.

Harry K

Around our house, we would use a small angle grinder. Available at Harbor Freight for prolly $20-$30

Kate O|||||||O

The "standard" little cutoff disks that come with the dremel are indeed pretty much useless. But they also sell fiber reinforced disks and they are quite durable. I've cut screws and bolts and pipe with them easily. They are a little bigger in diameter than the others though, so you might have trouble fitting them in the space. But they do wear down pretty fast, so if you need to, you could dress them to smaller diameter with a brick or stone.

HTH,

Paul F.

snipped-for-privacy@milmac.com (Doug Miller) wrote in news:KVC9i.25551$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr13.news.prodigy.net:

If the screws are drywall screws they are probably hardened and will not cut.

Oren wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Again, NG if drywall screws.

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@d30g2000prg.googlegroups.com:

Another vote for Dremel disks are brittle and shatter...

Not sure if when you mentioned Dremel that you meant you would buy one. If you're gonna buy something choose: - Die grinder for your compressor if you have one or - 4 1/2" grinder or - RotoZip

You'll get more bang for the buck usage out of the first two probably.

I use the heavy duty discs and have no problem. They last a long time if you use good technique.

Get the 4 1/2 and not the 4". Hard to get disks for 4". (So why do they sell them?)

That would be my choice for tight places. Just take your time and dont try to force the cut. Another possibility would be to carefully mark the new board and drill or notch it to clear the screws. If you do that you might want to fill the notches or holes with caulking compound to eliminate any gaps or water traps.

Don Young

I have about 1 1/2 inch of space so no luck with an angle grinder. Thanks.

MC