They are not drywall screws, I think those are galvanized roofing screws. I
am just trying to get them out of the way, if I hammer in opposite direction
they will pop out the other end and tear up the flashing and asphalt cement
on top of it, which means I will have to redo the roofing edge.
He knows that. He meant left and right, or front and back, opposite
directions from each other, not opposite direction as you just wrote,
with no s.
His is another way to bend them as in his previous clause.
Oh I see now. Well that does not work either. The hammer barely fits
so most times I hit something else in the narrow channel before the
nail or screw. I tried to wedge a flat head screwdriver against one
screw then wack the screwdriver with it but it just "weasel" its way
around the screw.
I think I will try the dremel grinding disc next since I have a dremel
(but no disc) if that does not work then I don't know what else I can
do. Minor details always kill my project schedule.
Note that Dremel sells at least 3 different types of cutoff discs. The
thinnest ones are about an inch in diameter and cut fast because they
cut a very narrow slot, but as others have noted they are very fragile.
But there is a thicker, larger-diameter style that has visible fiber
reinforcement on its faces that should be a lot more robust (but slower
because the slot is at least 2X as wide). There's also a quick-change
version of the thicker disc that mounts on a special mandrel. If I was
doing a lot of cutting with a Dremel, I'd get the quick-change discs.
In the past, I've cut through hardened concrete nails with a Dremel
disc. (But if there's room, I'd use a cutting disc in an angle grinder
instead - far more power available).
Can you grab the heads of the screws with the cutter, but not cut
Then grab them with the cutter and twist the whole cutter when you
have a good grip. You may be able to unscrew them.
You did try a screwdriver? :-)
On Wed, 06 Jun 2007 10:29:51 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
The "standard" little cutoff disks that come with the dremel are
indeed pretty much useless. But they also sell fiber reinforced disks
and they are quite durable. I've cut screws and bolts and pipe with
them easily. They are a little bigger in diameter than the others
though, so you might have trouble fitting them in the space. But they
do wear down pretty fast, so if you need to, you could dress them to
smaller diameter with a brick or stone.
That would be my choice for tight places. Just take your time and dont try
to force the cut. Another possibility would be to carefully mark the new
board and drill or notch it to clear the screws. If you do that you might
want to fill the notches or holes with caulking compound to eliminate any
gaps or water traps.
On Jun 6, 1:29 pm, email@example.com wrote:
OK after trying all kinds of solutions (thanks to everyone who helped
out) I had success with the plier to remove some of the nails but the
screws are hard. I am going to try a heavy duty dremel cut off disc
next since I already have a dremel I just need to get some disc and
see. If that does not work I can try a bigger and meaner plier but
there may not be room to fit one of those in the tight space.
So if all else fails, my plan is to just use the plier to "bend" the
screws as much as I can, so instead of sticking out an inch and half
they stick out 3/4 inch after I bend/twist or whatever.
Now the question is, is it ok to nail the fascia board with say a 3/4"
spacing above it from the roof drip? Note that the actual flashing
still covers the fascia by several inches, it is just the top edge
(1"-2" wide) of the fascia not touching the flashing from below. I
can may be spray some expansive foam in the cavity along the whole
length to seal it?
Will that work?
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