how high is too high for residential water pressure?

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how high can I run my home water pressure before I run the risk of prematurely wearing out fixtures, washers, toilet parts, washing machine, etc.
our city water supply is at a really high pressure (over 150 psi) so I can set the pressure regulator for any pressure less than that
I like really strong showers, how high can I go without reducing the life of things?
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Only one way to find out for sure. Tom
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bugs bunny wrote:

Hi, I set my regulator at 60 psi. Tony
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you have so much pressure you could enjoy a multiple showerhead shower, go take a walk thru the plumbing department at some of the new add-ons. part of your decision may want outdoor garden hose pressure high for outside cleanup and carwashing, but generally you'll settle into something that keeps you happy in the shower and refills toilets quickly without splashing up the sinks. you may consider drips in the system more likely to occur at fixtures and plumbing valves and connections throughout the house plus any input specifications for your water using devices. monitor your water meter for leaks in your system more closely.
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bugs bunny wrote:

Most sources recommend between 40 and 60 psi.
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Joseph Meehan

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80psi is the max one would want if on a municiple water system and that is high. If on a well system 60 psi is on the high side and higher will wear our your well pump and controls.
TAB Dude
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I've always heard 50-60 psi. But, my previous home had no regulator, and the pressure was measured at 100-ish. In 20 years, the worst problem we had was noisy pipes when the kitchen sink was turned on. No premature wear that I was aware of, unless having the rebuild the Delta kitchen faucet twice ($10, 20 minutes), was caused by high pressure.
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For most homes, it is not just a matter of setting the regulator to get the pressure you want. The size of the pipes and their various branches is a key factor.
Even if you have your regulator maxed out, the shower is not going to be vary powerful if it's plumbed with 1/2 " pipe or is located a long distance from the house inlet.
Beachcomber
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Agreed. And, we didn't set up the house that way. Be bought it when we were young and clueless. I didn't even know regulators existed until I moved to the 2nd house and found one there.
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Appliances are generally rated up to 80. I certainly wouldn't go above this unless you have a really good reason to do so.
As others have noted 40-60 is typical.
I read somewhere that the single biggest cause of home flooding is washing machine hose failure. Pressure is a big contributor here.
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I agree...sold washers for 15 years and as I remember the user's manuals recommend no more than 60 lbs pressure as a continuous pressure. Any higher invites the mixing solenoids to fail and open, flooding the house. And of course the higher pressure shortens the life of hoses, also. I lived in AZ for a while and one house there had pressure of 90 lbs. After the copper pipes burst under the slab twice in two years, I added a regulator and set it to 60 lbs. Two of my neighbors had also had problems with a leak under the slab. I didn't notice much loss of pressure at the shower head which was on the other side of the house from the incoming line. Tom G
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Yes, it is the maximum recommended for residential use. The physical sensation of a shower at 60 and that at higher pressures is minimal. If the house is regulated to 60 andd the shower is not satisfactory, I would suspect long runs of undersized pipe and lots of els as the culprit.
Harry K
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wrote:

Lots of shower heads come with a water saving thing installed - a little plastic disk that can be removed and tossed into the kitchen junk drawer, where it'll remain for 20 years.
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On 14 Dec 2005 05:43:51 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Sold a house recently (municipal water) and the buyer's inspector found the water pressure @ 90. He stated it needed to be 85 or below. I took readings before and after this inspection. My gauge regularly showed pressure at 85. He give in about which gauge was most accurate.
Oren "My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore excused from saving Universes."
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On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 00:32:24 -0500, "bugs bunny"

Well silly, 149psi of course. Bubba
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Most water heater pressure relief valves pop at 150PSI. I used to live in PA with water pressure of 125 PSI. I installed a pressure reducing valve set for 60 PSI. It reduced the flow rate of my shower head considerably, so I used less hot water, which reduced my gas bill some. I still got a good shower.
Stretch
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bugs bunny wrote:

If you go to high you take the chance of blowing out your copper sweat pipe joints. Think of the cost of replacing copper joints in a wall somewhere. Not to mention the water damage caused by a break.
Rich
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but you can\'t make them THINK"
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Have you ever checked the pressure a proper sweated joint can take? Far beyond the 100 psi or so you'd find in any water system.
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Yes but who said it was properly seated? You? Whenever you change pressure there is no guarantee. Would you stake your reputation on it or your insurance? I have seen this happen more than once. It's not a pretty sight. Rich
--
"you can lead them to LINUX
but you can\'t make them THINK"
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On Wed, 14 Dec 2005 00:32:24 -0500, "bugs bunny"

What's the pressure setting on your water-heater T&P valve?
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