How do you get those labels off the vitamin and nuts plastic jars

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in news:i8ko76$ojr$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:

oops, speed reading.

Reply to
Marina
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I've amassed a large number of prescription bottles with the labels on them. I asked the pharmacy if they'd take them to crush. No, they won't. I'm considering a small trash can fire.

Reply to
Joe Carthy

hers fall into a million pieces.

I use Naptha as a general purpose, non-water based solvent. Works great on labels.

Reply to
hrhofmann

I know it is a little late to comment on this thread. But, just yesterday, I had the same problem. I had a nice wide mouth jar that had cashews in it. I want to use the plastic jar to keep barbeque run in. But I wanted the label off (I would have used it anyway).

I soaked it in soapy water overnight, and this morning, the paper came off easily. There was a heavy glue residue left. After spraying that with WD-40, it came off slick as a whistle. Anyway, that is what worked for me.

Bob-tx

Reply to
Bob-tx

hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net wrote

Thats very similar to kerosene, but kerosene is a slightly higher molecular weight, so works better with labels that dont come off in the dishwasher.

Kerosene has a maximum of 16 carbon atoms, naptha has a max of 12 carbon atoms.

Reply to
Rod Speed

You could try the home winemaker trick for removing the newer labels:

Fill the containter with hot tap water. Wait a few minutes for the glue to soften, then peel the label off intact.

Gary

Reply to
G Mulcaster

SF Man wrote in news:i8j28l$ncn$ snipped-for-privacy@speranza.aioe.org:

peel

Yes, there IS a secret solvent. Its name varies with the manufacturer, but it is usually something like "electronic circuit board cleaner".

It's not cheap - a spray can should cost about $10 at least, perhaps up to $25. Anything cheaper is garbage. The good stuff is available from stores which sell electronic stuff which will baffle you. IOW, for "pros", in the /original/ pre "China-makes- everything-and-makes-everyone-using-it-a-pro" meaning.

Also, whole they ALL claim "will not harm plastic and evaporates leaving no residue", that also varies with the manufacturer and the overall quality. All these sprays are derived from Freon, which used to be available in spray cans in the good old days, AND cleaned /everything/ AND left ZERO residue. These are "environmentally friendly" but slightly less-effective cousins.

But they WILL remove the things you mention. If the label is VERY old (like something in your basement, and the glue has turned into a hard substance which will NOT flake/scrub off) then a citrus-based "goo-remover" product will dissolve THAT stuff and then you can clean it off.

(You still have to get the *label* off in the PITA manner you describe, but the spray WILL remove the left-over glue very easily.)

The goo-remover MAY work on SOME of the "regular" labels but it will take a lot longer and it's a lot messier. And you will need a lot.

Thinner and muriatic acid might also do the job but little will be left of the container and perhaps of your hands and eyes.

In general, I usually try rubbing alcohol first, but it is useless with labels.

Reply to
thanatoid

Smitty Two wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mx01.eternal-september.o rg:

Most people wanting to clean goo do not have access to ultrasonic tanks of suitable size.

I can NOT believe I am doing this, but I am actually checking the cans.

Can 1:

M.G. Chemicals, Canada. "Electrosolve" Contact Cleaner, Zero Residue Chemical Contents: Hexane Isomers, 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane.

Cans 2 and 3:

Names etc. irrelevant, but labels mention "circuit board cleaner, no residue"

No contents listed, as they were made in the fubar-forsaken 3rd world country I currently live in. Who knows exactly what's in them, but one works very well, the other even better, but at the price of leaving somewhat visible marks on some plastics.

I believe the active ingredient (for the purposes of this thread) is 1,1,1,2-Tetrafluoroethane and/or close cousins. The smell (once you know how to recognize it) or bringing a sample to work with to the shop is the way to make sure it will do the job.

Reply to
thanatoid

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