The tolerance for the countersinks on my current project is pretty tight. I
have 20 holes to drill and I want the countersinks to be consistent. None
of the depth stop collars that I have will work, so I made my own:
I can center the washer and fitting over the spot I need to drill, insert the
drill and when the fitting begins to spin, I know I'm at the right depth. The
washer prevents the copper fitting from marring the wood when it spins. You'll notice that I had to shorten the fitting just a little to get it to the right
Feel free to steal my idea, I don't plan to patent it ;-)
It'll certainly be more precise (and, perhaps more importantly) stop any
'oops!' of going too far that can happen if a bit grabs a little grain
or ones attention is distracted by an external event or whatever...it
may not be critical in this application; occasionally a "blowout" on the
other side may be the result and end up ruining a workpiece.
On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 5:54:58 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
Well, at least *somebody* gets it! ;-)
In this case it was a delicate balance between making the countersink deep
enough to hold the plugs and preventing the screw from blowing out the face
of the bed rail. I could have shopped for 1/4" shorter screws, but I had
the longer screws on hand and it was easier to make the stop than to run
I mic'ed it after the screws were in and I was pretty damn close to a
blow out. I hope the wood doesn't shrink. ;-)
On Monday, August 8, 2016 at 5:04:16 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
You'll notice that I had to shorten the fitting just a little to get it to
By "proper size drill" I assume you mean "proper sized *bit*".
Assuming my assumption is correct, why don't you think I used the proper
sized bit? The bit shown in the image I posted is part of a set that
includes the bit and the countersink.
Besides, as noted in my OP, the depth issue is related to depth of the
counter sink, not the screw hole. While a piece of tape would have *told*
me when I was at the correct depth, the homemade stop *ensured* that I
was at the proper depth. No more, no less, no whoops. Tape is flexible,
tape gets worn, tape get wrinkled.
With 20 holes to drill, a solid stop with a wide base (the washer) basicall
eliminates any chance of drilling any of the holes too deep. I just finishe
drilling them earlier this evening and the stop worked to perfection. The
next task is to cut the plugs to hide the holes.
Okay enough of your nit picking crap...
Why didn't you use a correctly sized drill bit (say a 1/4") marked with tape
to provide the countersink?
They are called screw buttons.
So you drilled countersunk holes to install screw buttons? Why didn't you
just use a dowel?
On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 3:32:38 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
Why would I use one bit to drill the screw hole and a different bit to make
the counter sink? That seems just a tad inefficient to me when one tool can
do it one step.
I have already explained the reason for the depth stop vs. the tape. You
can go back and read that again if you would like.
No, they are called plugs. Buttons have a domed top and the top extends
above the surface of the wood. Plugs sit flush with the surface of the wood
I am using plugs, cut from the same wood using a plug cutter. Once the grai
is aligned and the finish is applied, the plugs just about disappear.
Nope. If you read what I wrote above, it should all be quite clear by now.
Because a plug cutter will cut a tapered plug from the same wood, perfectly
sized for the countersink bit that was used and (almost) perfectly matched
to the surrounding wood.
On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 5:36:43 PM UTC-4, dpb wrote:
$25 for theirs vs. $10 for mine, but that adjustable depth stop for the
counter sink could be sweet when different depth counter sinks are required.
Mine is kind of limited (no pun intended) in that respect. Of course, at
$0.50 a repair coupling, I could make a whole bunch of depth stops before
I've spent that additional $15. ;-)
Thanks for the link...I'll keep it in mind.
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