Was thinking of installing a programmable thermostat in our snowbird mobile
home in FL but after finding out thermostats call for aux. heat (resistive)
with a two degree change I'm leery, less I just use it when cooling and use
override when heating and set and forget it. Just wondering what your
opinions are. Thanks.
Depends what you mean by "mobile home". If it is a standard trailer
or motor home, they usually use a 12 volt DC control system. I
really don't know about single and double wide, semi permanent
'mobile homes'. I've installed a Honeywell in my motor home because
the nice fancy digital thermostat provided by the motor home
builder, was simply crap. It suffered from major cycle-itis and
there was no way to change it. In the motor home, I picked a
thermostat that had internal relays to control the HVAC system. I
also picked on that had a backup battery that also could be used for
continuous operation in systems that have no 24VAC return wire at
the thermostat. My system is actually 2 systems; a roof mounted
AC/heat pump and a side mounted propane furnace. Each has it's own
duct system. I had to add a miniature toggle switch to the
Honeywell to provide a High/Low fan speed for the AC/heat pump. It
seems to work well, except there are times I can't explain what it
is doing. BTW, my heat pump also has an electric resistive heat
strip that is switched in when the temp of one of the freon lines
crosses some magic value. But in my case, it never worked as the
sensor was never in contact with the freon line .... it is now but
I'm not living in it full time. The whole thing is sort of a
kludge. If you only want the furnace to run, you have to re-program
the Honeywell to make that happen. I know how to do it, but I know
my wife doesn't. If I ever sell the unit, I will put back the
original thermostat. BTW, the Honeywell does provide very accurate
control of the heat and AC.
I wouldn't. You're right, heat pumps don't like cycling the temperature. Find
a compromise temperature and let it go. We use gas fireplace logs to warm up
the great room while we're sitting watching TV. The localized heat tends to
cool off the master bedroom (the others are on the second floor so get warm),
which I actually like. We have to keep the temperature in the house warmer
than I like, anyway, because of the "forced cold air heat". It works out for
the little heating we do here in Alabama.
On 12/28/2010 11:27 AM, email@example.com wrote:
We have a heat pump with propane backup furnace. I don't
particularly like getting up in the middle of the night to a cold
house. So we set our programmable thermostat to 68 in the day. At
7PM it bumps up to a whopping 69. But, believe it or not, 1 degree
makes you feel better, especially when you start winding down.
Then, after midnight, we let it go to 67. This probably doesn't
save up a whole lot, but it works for us. As far as cold air
heating, this furnace has one of the variable speed blowers. We
rarely feel the typical cold air draft of the heat pump I've heard
of. Maybe I have to credit my HVAC guy that did the install in this
new house, with doing a good job.
Sure, I've found the same. When you're moving about you don't notice the cold
as much. When sitting in front of the toob cold settles in fast. We now have
propane logs in a fireplace in our great room. Works well, but the heat
doesn't come on in the rest of the house (two heat pumps).
In our previous house (in Vermont, natural gas/hydronic) we'd set the
thermostat for 59F night and then up to 65F about 6:00AM, then down to 62F
after we went to work until 4:00, when it went to 65F again. If we felt cold,
we'd bump the temperature. Now we keep it at 65-66F, and probably 67F in
January/Februry when it gets cold.
I don't know how you avoid drafts with force air. The problem with heat pumps
is that because of efficiency concerns the output air isn't high enough to
take the chill off it. Moving cold air == draft.
On 12/28/2010 5:33 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I think some of the improvement in this system comes from the
variable speed blower. When there's little head, the speed seems to
go down, which increases the register air temperature and produces
I think some of the better thermostats also let you decide when and if
it calls for back-up
heat, ie you can set the differential. Take a look at the Honeywell
manual. I'm not sure on this specific issue, but it has lots of
parameters that can be changed.
It also has adaptive recovery, which means you just set the temp and
time you want it at that
temp and the thermostat learns how much earlier to actually fire the
system up to get it there.
Of course how much you can set the temp back with a heat pump system
depends on the size
of the system and climate.
On 12/29/2010 9:08 AM, email@example.com wrote:
I do have a VisionPRO TH8000 thermostat. I really haven't changed
any of parameters beyond what the HVAC guy did when he installed it.
I also have the Honeywell HZ432 controller, which, besides being a
zone controller, controls the entire system. The nice thing about
this setup is that you can set the humidity in the summertime. If
you don't have a whole house dehumidifier, it will use the AC to
lower the humidity, which is what I do. Plus, having a 2 stage
AC/Heat pump, it usually only runs stage one to dehumidify.
Actually, I've only seen the AC go to stage 2 when you manually make
a change. Even though the maximum summer temperature in this area
last summer was about 96, here in the mountains where I am, the
maximum was only 89, so the dual stage works well here. Also, the
VisionPRO can apparently control a whole house humidifier, which I
think I'll add for next year's heating season. Some of the manuals
are a bit vague on this, so I'm not sure. I know the manual talks
about programming to run the humidifier only on heat, or when the
blower is on, or not at all, but I'm not really sure of how to hook
it up. I'll need to do more research.
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