GFI not working

I'm no expert, but I've done some basic electrical and I'm having problems with a GFI in my bathroom. The GFI I had went dead (reset didn't work, no power). I assumed the GFI was bad so I replaced it, twice!

In all cases it still doesn't work. Hitting 'Reset' doesn't work. I tested the wires and the black wire is indeed hot. When I plug in a Circuit reader (with a GFI tester on it) no lights come on (this is the model with 2 yellow and one red light). However, when I use a voltage detector I get a hot reading when I test either side of the outlet.

The outlet has worked for the past 2 years just fine and then this problem suddenly occured.

Any help would be appreciated.

Reply to
penegron
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The black wire is hot, but your neutral wire, the white, is open, so you don't have a complete circuit. Try to find where the power is coming from before it goes to that box and repair the loose connection

Reply to
RBM

The GFI is not resetting because something in the branch it is protecting is causing it to trip. Unplug every possible item on the branch and try to reset again. If there are any outlets that are outside,(patio, driveway lights etc. ) check them out for moisture. Be sure that all outside outlets have weatherproof covers and good sealing gaskets.

A quick test is to turn off the breaker protecting that branch and see if reset works.

The GFI tester is telling you the truth. The voltage detector is giving you a false positive.

Charlie

Reply to
Charlie Bress

The GFI tester is telling you the truth. The voltage detector is giving you a false positive.

Advice like this will get someone killed. He has 120 volts on the hot leg. He's got no neutral

Reply to
RBM

Hi, How about getting a decent meter for crying out loud. Been working on wiring without one? Your GFI does not lie. You have wiring problem upstream if the outlet does not have any load down stream. Don't get zapped!

Reply to
Tony Hwang

I agree, I've seen this problem quite a few times. His mistake was assuming that the original GFI was bad.

Doug

Reply to
Doug

Also, check for downstream shorts between the Neutral and Ground. These will trip a modern GFI in addition to current imbalance on Hot and Neutral.

Reply to
Beachcomber

Um, you get a hot reading when you measure voltage between what and what exactly?

i
Reply to
Ignoramus31846

Well there is 120V there.

But he doesn't say that he tried to test the neutral leg. He probably didn't try to test it, and that's why when he first posted, he didn't know it was bad.

He said "When I plug in a Circuit reader (with a GFI tester on it) no lights come on (this is the model with 2 yellow and one red light)." What do the instructions say that this means? It doesn't mean that all is well. Are you talking about the yellow chunk prongs at one end and 3 lights on the ohter end?

Reply to
mm

On all GFI's I've worked with, the test and reset buttons are both inoperative in the absence of power. The reset button will not "click in."

Yes, the GFI is telling the truth. The OP has problem with the neutral wire: "I get hot reading when I test either side of the outlet."

Shouldn't get a "hot" reading on a wire (the neutral) that is tied to ground at the panel.

Reply to
Jim Nugent

Thank you everyone I finally was able to get back to this posting and read the feedback. I haven't had a chance to check the neutral wire, but regarding this

This appears to be true, the reset button does not "click in"

And yes I agree that my first mistake was assuming the original GFI was bad. I didn't check it, but I had another GFI go bad on me recently and it initially seemed to be the same symptoms, but lesson learned....I need to be more thorough.

Thanks

Reply to
penegron

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