On my new house I had the electrician install a generator panel. He also put an inlet connector outside the house. This connector is a 4 pin female connector in a box with a hinged cover. Shouldn't this be a male connector? So that you don't have a male to male cord leading to the possibility of a hot male connector. Does anyone know what the NEC says about this? Or any other comments? Thanks.
You are correct, It should be a flanged inlet, which is male. The female cord body from the generator plugs onto it
I am no electrician and I don't know what the NEC says, and I (like you), am too lazy to look it up. :-) But, I would think that a female inlet is what you want. I wouldn't want any prongs, that could be hot (electrically charged), exposed directly to the elements or where a person/child could get shocked from them it they get touched.
This is just my opinion with no valid experience or knowledge.
I am anxious to hear what others say.
Hank
I am no electrician and I don't know what the NEC says, and I (like you), am too lazy to look it up. :-) But, I would think that a female inlet is what you want. I wouldn't want any prongs, that could be hot (electrically charged), exposed directly to the elements or where a person/child could get shocked from them it they get touched.
This is just my opinion with no valid experience or knowledge.
I am anxious to hear what others say.
Hank
If his receptacle was female, the cord from the generator would have to be male on both ends, which is exactly the dangerous violation you refer to. The receptacle attached to the house (male prongs) is never live, except when powered by the generator, as it's feeding a transfer switch
Exactly why I originally posted this question. Right now, I disconnected the male receptacle and connected 3 pieces of 12 gauge stranded wire to a plug matching my generator. I did this because I didn't have the 4 pin plug to use with the provided receptacle, power was out and it looked like it was going to be a long one as a blown-over tree knocked down 2 spans of a 5KV line. But .... now I'd like to do it right. I'm seriously thinking of replacing the small box with a slightly larger one and just coil the wire and generator plug inside. Then all you have to do is open the box, pull out the wire and plug it into the generator which would sit 4' away in its running location. Also, I guess I should connect the 4th safety green wire to the generator frame ... not sure how important that is because I'm pretty sure it is already connected to neutral in the genset, but I'd have to check to be sure. Also, the breaker panel, which is, of course earth grounded, is right behind the wall where generator inlet box is mounted.
The generac transfer kit I got was a complete kit with exterior box, sockets and cables, my exterior socket is male and the box can lock so nobody can get shocked if my panel malfunctions, your cable from the gen is now not standard purchase, female- male plug but male - male and is more dangerous, you must now make a gen cable. Have him change it. Look online for photos of transfer panels and exterior boxes it should be visable what kind of socket they show, a male. Try Generac, Honda and other sites. On another issue test the gen with a volt meter
60hz is 3600rpm is 120v. You should start unloaded a bit higher at 124v maybe 61hz and not drop to low testing full load, electric resistance heaters are good for a test. Everything has a V and HZ safe operating range, to low or to high and you might have repair bills soon. An electrician friend bought a new cheap unit, didnt check V, 20 minutes later his new TV smoked, it was putting out about 150v he said. Base motor rpm can be set, go for 122-24 v without load , then load it up and monitor it. A Kill a watt is good for HZ, your panel does have of course 2 watt meters so you can run it safely. Test it all first with electric heaters to rated load.on 12/9/2009 10:38 PM (ET) RBM wrote the following:
No. All outlets should be female. Yes, the generator is also a female outlet. Generators do not come with the power cords, you have to make/have made a power cord with both ends male, as I have had made by a licensed union electrician..
On Thu, 10 Dec 2009 12:16:00 -0500, willshak wrote Re Re: Generator Inlet:
Good advice. What do they charge for that in your area?
Not so. The input to an emergency transfer switch is male. This allows connection via a normal extension cable.
Here's an example:
*The feed to the house electrical panel or transfer switch is connected to an inlet (Male) normally. You connect the female part of a cord from the generator to the male inlet. A male to male connection is dangerous.
Ok, I couldn't stop myself. I went to Home Depot website and searched for an electrical INLET. Found one for $46.50 in a metal box that can be locked. It is MALE. I kinda liked it, I may put one on my barn. So, I guess worrying about someone touching the prongs is moot if the box is locked.
Hank
That would be incorrect. The house (or location to be serviced) outlet should always be male and the mating cord should of course have the same series female cord connector.
Do you mean "male inlet"?
He's talking about an inlet (male). You changed the subject from inlet to outlet.
A picture is worth a thousand usenet posts.
Since the inlet is one side of the transfer switch, there is zero chance the inlet will ever be energized by line power. Your moot is moot. That felt strange, to write.
Transfer kits sold are Male in exterior box or panel so you dont plug in the cord and kill yourself in the dark with a hot open male plug.
220v 30a and you dont live long. Look online at what is sold standard.
The generac transfer kit I got was a complete kit with exterior box, sockets and cables, my exterior socket is male and the box can lock so nobody can get shocked if my panel malfunctions, your cable from the gen is now not standard purchase, female- male plug but male - male and is more dangerous, you must now make a gen cable. Have him change it. Look online for photos of transfer panels and exterior boxes it should be visable what kind of socket they show, a male. Try Generac, Honda and other sites. On another issue test the gen with a volt meter
60hz is 3600rpm is 120v. You should start unloaded a bit higher at 124v maybe 61hz and not drop to low testing full load, electric resistance heaters are good for a test. Everything has a V and HZ safe operating range, to low or to high and you might have repair bills soon. An electrician friend bought a new cheap unit, didnt check V, 20 minutes later his new TV smoked, it was putting out about 150v he said. Base motor rpm can be set, go for 122-24 v without load , then load it up and monitor it. A Kill a watt is good for HZ, your panel does have of course 2 watt meters so you can run it safely. Test it all first with electric heaters to rated load.Yes...I have the same set up in my house. I have a male inlet for plugging into the house. A lot of posters think that the male prongs sticking out are hot when the house is in normal operation. This is not the case as it comes with an emergency power transfer switch. It is has NO electricity to the male plug until it is plugged into the generator. It's like saying don't touch the ends of your male toaster plug in LOL... Jim
In more ways than one. (Not there's anything wrong with that.)
Ok, after lots and lots of replies, I had the electrician out today (for another reason) and asked about the female inlet he installed. He agreed that male would be better, but that's what they (who ever they are) provided. I told the electrician that I was going to remove the female connector and add 3 wires going to a plug that would fit the genset. He said, "that's what I'd do!" When not in use, the cord easily folds up inside the inlet box, now that the female connector and its plate is gone. The cover still closes nicely keeping the cord and plug dry.
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