GE Profile Fridge not cooling

We have a GE Profile side by side (TPX24BIY or maybe TPX24SIY) which is plenty cold in the freezer side but barely cooling on the fridge side. It's running continuously.
I know from past experience these models are very touchy when the condensor gets dirty but I gave it a good cleaning about a week back and they normally go back to normal operation within a day or two but not so this time and as I said the freezer is solidly (below-zero) cold. Refrigerator is only 40-50 range.
Before I call in the pros I want to check on the defrost system since I've read that a defrost failure can account for this problem. Where is the timer on this model? I don't see it on diagrams. I want to see if there is a problem with the timer or the defrost heater. If nothing checks out there then time for pro help. But where is it located? There are no fancy electronic controls on this model.
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problem is caused by lack of airflow from the evaporator coil in the freezer unit into the refrigerator. It could be blocked by ice, blocked by something in the way of the air channels, or the fan might be inoperative. Locate the air channels and do whatever is necessary to get the air moving thru and your problem will be solved.
Leaving the refrigerator turned off will eventually melt any ice, even if the defrost system is not working. A plugged condensate water drain can contribute to icing up so be sure it drains well. Be careful not to damage the coils if you try to defrost it; do not use an ice pick! Your problem now is minor, just don't make it worse.
Don Young
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Thanks but I've already looked to see if there is anything blocking any vents.
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I'm pretty sure the problem stems from poor air circulation and I am starting to be convinced it's caused by internal ice buildup although that's not totally certain.
Here is what I have accomplished so far.
I saw a photo of the defrost timer online and recognized a corner of it as something I'd seen and thus located it inside the refrigerator compartment behind the plastic cover at the top.
Using a small screwdriver I gently advanced it until the continuously running refrigerator shut off and went into the defrost mode. Measuring the input current at over 6A I determined the heater was working (actually I didn't have to measure as I could see a good spark when I pulled the cord).
I had planned to move it out of defrost mode 20 minutes or so later but by then it had moved off of its own accord and the machine was running again but performance was no better.
So the timer was working or at least it was now. Could have been stuck earlier I guess.
We also do not know if the heater stayed on or if it's intermittent.
This morning I put the timer into a defrost cycle again and I could hear sounds like bits of ice falling in the evap compartment. Again the timer moved on and the fridge restarted.
Afterwards if anything the air flow (as noted at the back of the freezer compartment) was worse. The melting ice must have dropped to a place where it's clogging air flow more than before. And if out of touch of the evaporator and defrost heater it's not going to melt and the defrost terminating thermostat will turn off the heat once there is no more ice on the evap itself.
So we have the following suspects:
Previously stuck defrost timer allowed this much ice to build up Intermittent defrost heater Defrost thermostat shutting off heat too soon
Unfortunately there's too much in the freezer right now to shut everything down and give it a thorough meltdown. Or even to access the evap compartment.
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have to remove the covers or let the unit stay off with the doors open long enough for it to melt. I have not noticed you mentioning whether you can determine if the circulating fan that is supposed to blow the cold air into the refrigerator compartment is running or not. I assume you are aware that on one common system there is a damper door in that air passage that is designated as the "FREEZER" temperature control. The thermostat generally is in the refrigerator compartment and the freezer temperature is controlled by how much of its air you transfer into the refrigerator to satisfy the thermostat. By restricting the air the unit has to run more to keep the refrigerator at the thermostat temperature, so the freezer runs colder.
Don Young
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Steve Kraus wrote:

If the fan is running ciculating air inside that is OK. Timer comes on once a day doing dofrost. It is a clock and contact which controls heater on/off. Contact can get stuck together causing heater on all the time, can burn out causing no current to the heater or pitted contact can cause intermittent current to the heater. Easiest thing to do is replacing the assembly which is not that expensive. Melting ice has to drain to drain pan. The drain hose can gewt clogged with dirt, etc.
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