My 9-year old dishwasher (GE GSD2220Z02FB) is not cleaning the dishes
properly. I noticed that the
water level is quite low during the wash cycle and water just bubbles
out instead of being forced out at
high pressure. Searching the internet, I found that the possible
causes are :
a. Float stuck due to food particles. Where do I find the float - I
don't see anything other than the
heating element and a sump screen at the basin of the
b. Water inlet valve screen might be dirty. Do all dishwasher water
valves have this screen? My
inlet copper pipe is sweated on and I cannot get this off - I'm
hesitant to break this if the valve
does not have a screen - anybody have prior experience with
similar GE dishwashers?
c. The continuity check on the drain solenoid fails - i.e it seems
to be open. Could I just short the
terminals to determine if this is the sole cause?
Any help is appreciated.
I would try the float valve first. Look inside the dishwasher.
There will be a dome shaped box usually held on by a single
screw, but could have two. Unscrew it and take off the dome.
The float valve moves up and down. Move it up and down and if
you can, clean out any debris or hard water deposits. Replace
and test. If it is not a stuck valve, then it may be the switch
itself. It is directly below the dome, but under the dishwasher.
I don't know about GE especially. However, it probably has a screen,
but not where the pipe is sweated on. So don't break it. If it has
one, it is where the pipe screws on, just before the intake solenoid
valve, which you haven't mentioned having. Just before the first
thing that grit in the pipe could damage or clog.
And have you verified that the meter works at the moment? See if the
meter itself, without the solenoid involved, shows continuity.
If the drain solenoid were open, wouldn't the bigger problem be that
it doesn't drain. You haven't mentioned that.
You've lost me. Short the terminals?
While the power is connected? That seems like a very bad idea.
While the power is not on? What's the point of that?
Nothing in the DW is connected in series except switches and the
things they switch. So an open solenoid winding will only affect
whatever it is that the solenoid is controlling physically. Each
solenoid, motor, heater etc, is connected in parallel, and gets the
full 110 volts.
I don't see anything about the fill solenoid. Doesn't it have one?
If not, how does it keep the water from going in when the dishwasher
I've seen quite a few trouble shooting charts where they list some
possible causes and totally omit others.
When my dishwasher didn't fill, it was not really possible to listen
for the fill solenoid clicking as I turned the control dial. The
clikcing made too much noise. Your timer is probably electronic but I
would still do it this way: So I took the bottom front cover off,
removed the connector from the fill solenoid (which they conveniently
mounted up front), put the DW in the fill position, and lightly
touched the connector to the solenoid contacts, tabs. Then I could
hear the click clearly. So the electrical part of the solenoid was
not the problem.
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