I have a small home office containing. 1 computer/monitor, phone,
router, lamp and a laser printer. When I heave everything on and turn
on the printer it trips my battery backup power strip for a split
This room has 4 outlets and shares a breaker with the bedroom across
the hall which is only running an alarm clock and a lamp. That room has
would the fluctuation be an issue with the a wire? or perhaps the type
of service I have 100 or 200 amp? How would I find out what type of
service I have?
I have replaced the breaker in the box as a first step.
Nope- none of the above. Want a general rule-of-thumb? Never, repeat
connect laser printer to ups. In some office buildings, with system ups
building mgmt will get very testy (rightfully) if you do.
Read the printer's docs on power draw to heat the fuser. For many, it's
500 watts- waaaaaay more than all the other stuff. With other stuff on,
fuser heating, you'll typically severely overload a typical single-user
If all else fails, RTFM.
The printer is not plugged into the strip it is howerver on the same
circuit breaker. My point was that the printer drains enough power to
trip the the strip to battery backup.
There are times that with the printer off the lamps in the two rooms
blink and intermittently go slightly dim.
Is there a way to prevent this? other than Read The Fucking Manual?
Last I checked there wasn't a manual for most home electrical systems.
I think all of us in this group could do with out the flaming. If
that's your thing maybe try /. or some other of the kiddie sites.
I suggest a new circuit for that laser printer. A heavier wire would
likely help, but rather than run a replacement wire, I would just run a new
one. If you were closer to the breaker box, it might not have the same
problem. I would also suggest that a newer laser printer would be less
likely to do it as most don't draw as much power.
Laser printers suck a lot of power when warming up.
Put the laser printer on its own electrical circuit.
There is, it is called the NEC (National Electrical Code) in the USA.
Houses were not built in the old days (in the last few years) to handle
the electrical loads of today's appliances.
Your UPS is doing its job, and only the computer itself should be
powered by it. Printers and lights and stuff don't need to be protected,
and will handle the fluctuations fine.
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth
manual say the wattage is (or the label on the
bottom of the printer)? How much does power draw
on the battery backup strip? I doubt that it is
too much which would be about 1800 watts. So,
that leaves wires and connections. Make sure the
panel connections are good, then look at the
connections at the wall sockets. If you have the
backstab plugs that don't clamp down, switch to
sockets that screw the wire down.
If you still have problems, maybe your wiring is
Wattage on the printer is 600. Let's not forget the lights also blink
more frequently then I would like with the printer in the mix.
I've also noticed the fluctuations are more frequent when the central
air and heat are running. I have a dual zone a/c and heat if that
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