Finishing trim on a new shower?


Just finished installing a shower in an existing bathroom that previously had only toilet & sink.
1-piece shower shell placed in corner against 2 existing sheet rock walls. Added floor-to-ceiling stud wall on 3rd side of shower.
I've calked and screwed the shell to the 3 walls. Now I'm not sure what the best way is to trim above the shell and along the front edges where it is attached to the 2 side walls.
I've been considering furring out the walls above the shell (from the top of the shell to the ceiling) and gluing some of that 1/8 inch panel stuff (fiberglass?) that is used in commercial restrooms. Ideas?
Photos to follow.
All suggestions welcome.
Thanks, Sparky
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Photos here: <
http://img4.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img4/27/IMG_0033.jpg
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http://img4.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img4/27/IMG_0034_001.jpg
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http://img4.picsplace.to/img.php?file=img4/27/IMG_0038_002.jpg
The molded edge all around the top of the shower shell is about 1 inch deep.
And yes, I'm going to add a door. (c:
Sparky.
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wrote:

Pretty standard stuff. Sheetrock down to the shower edge on the third side. Then finish with a single row of tile as a border.
Ken
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Thus spake snipped-for-privacy@nospam.tnx:

Thanks for your reply.
Don't want to do tile. Quick 'n not-so-dirty solution? maybe a strip of edging of some kind?
--
DaveC
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Uh, you do know that lip is supposed to go <under> the sheetrock layer, right? And mud up to the corner?
Anything you do at this point is going to look like a kludge, but there are degrees of kludge. Like the other guy said, a row of tile, or maybe check with local counter shop and see about some strips of granite or marble, or even Corian solid-surface material, to trim it out. Ideally, you'd like to get them with a kerf to cover the fiberglass lip, so they would sit square. Install with adhesive, and seal edges with suitable caulk.
aem sends...
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Actually I've worked in cities where it is code to have a 5/8 firewall behind any enclosure. So the installation would go as Spartky has started. Drywall then tub or shower surround. Then drywall or cement board over. I have adopted this installation method as my own. I'll never get busted for code - no matter where I'm working. & I don't see anything bad about having an uninterupted firewall.
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snipped-for-privacy@att.net wrote:

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"SparkyGuy" wrote in message

Read instructions b/4 installing, since you don't know what you're doing.
Man, I hate to say this, but your installation belongs here: http://www.thisoldhouse.com:80/toh/tohnews/gallery/0,25895,1569371,00.html
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I vote for furring out all the walls around this thing to within 1/4" of flush, then use an accent tile trim. You haven't shown a picture looking down, so I assume that isn't a problem.
--


MichaelB
www.michaelbulatovich.ca
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I know you aren't going to like either of these suggestions, but there are 2 ways that I can think of to make this look right:
1 - Hard Core Fix: Remove the unit. Remove enough of the drywall on the 2 finished walls to allow you to install the unit correctly - the flange should be attached to the studs. Assuming this unit is already plumbed in, you will also have to re-plumb it. You'll also have to fir out the new stud wall because the unit will no longer reach this wall once it is set back against the studs. Once it is install correctly, hire a plasterer to fill in around the flange. Don't try to fill it in with drywall mud...it's guaranteed to crack if used in such a thick amount. Of course, this assumes that you did not use a bed of concrete under the shower base. If you did, ignore this suggestion and consider suggestion # 2.
2 - Soft Core Fix: Put a 1/4" layer of drywall over the exiting drywall to cover the flange like it is supposed to be covered, Obviously you'll need mud along the ceiling and in all the corners, but when it's done, it'll look like it is supposed to. Of course, this assumes that whatever is up against or attached to the long wall that we can't see won't prevent the installation of another layer of drywall.
Good luck!
SparkyGuy wrote:

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Cedar trim.
Paint the wall first, then rabbet the back side of the trim so it sits flat over the shower flange, nail it up (careful not to nail through the shower flange), and cover with a couple of coats of spar urethane.
Normally, you wouldn't want to use wood near a shower, but this should be outside the majority of the wet areas. In any case, the cedar would hold up better than the drywall in the area.
Installing trim would also let you remove and replace the shower stall easily in the future if you needed to (let's hope that's not any time soon).
Of course, you could paint the trim to match your room, or use a router to create a decorative profile. Your choice.
Anthony
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Put one coat of urethane on before you nail it up and cover all six sides of the trim. Apply additional coats after it is in place.
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