Drywall resurfacing problems

[vmacekesq]

Recently I've been refinishing the walls in my bathroom - I peeled the gloss-finish wallpaper off the greenboard, which was quite easy but pulled the paper surface off the board in a few spots. I've been skimming a thin coat of joint compound over the walls to even out stuck-on adhesive, low spots, joints, etc., and where the paper was pulled off the moisture from the compound seeps in and ripples the paper surface under the new finish. I've been trying to prep these ripped spots with paper drywall tape or drywall primer, without much luck. Anyone know what I should be doing (or if what I'm doing I'm not doing right)?

I've also noted the compound sets up very quickly on this job, probably due to the thin application. I can get in maybe three swipes before it gets unworkable. Any way to extend the work time?

VMacek

[Kyle Boatright]

The only way I've found is to take a box cutter and cut the delaminated paper away. For example, if you have a quarter sized area that is bubbling, take your knife and cut out the paper for a 1/2 inch all the way around the bubble. Go ahead and cut down into the limestone and dig a little of that out too. You need to remove all of the delaminated (bubbling) paper.

This can be a long process. You fill, find a bubble, cut it out, and fill some more.

KB

[Mike Paulsen]

I wouldn't try. Just get a thin coat on the wall as best you can, let it dry, and then do it again.

[Joseph Meehan]

[e-mail] wrote: ...

Different kinds of compound dry faster or slower. However you may try spraying a little water on the wall before you patch. No standing water, just some to help bring the moisture content of the wall up a bit so it does not wick so much out of the compound you are using.

[NickySantoro]

Spot prime the damaged areas with something like Gardz from Zinsser. Two coats. Let dry. After that you can spackle it easily. As far as working time, are you using the regular or lightweight? Regular gives you more working time.