Paddle bits are usually used where the hole is larger than a drill chuck will hold a twist drill, or is deeper than the twist drill. Many drills the average home owner are only chucked for 3/8 of an inch. Then you have to go to necked down drills. Pricewise paddle bits are cheaper than the twist drills in large sizes. If you are using a drill motor with variatable speed, the larger the hole, the slower you should run the twist drill.
"Ralph Mowery" wrote in news:eOCdnYSlvtor943NnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.com:
for wood,brad-point bits are preferable; they drill straighter than bits meant for metal like the twist drill bits. for larger holes,Forstner bits,or hole saws. spade bits are cheap,but less than ideal.
twist would do just fine for these 1/4" or so type bolts.
than say 1/2" ?
Anyone with a half brain knows that a 22 Rifle will make a quarter inch hole faster than a drill, and bullets are cheaper than drill bits too since them damn drill bits always brake when the get almost done with making the hole.
Caution: Dont hold the 2x4 on your lap or get your old lady to hold it when you shoot the holes. And dont put the 2x4 against your car tire or on the hood either. Just put the 2x4 against your asshole neighbors windshield or that fancy snantchy stained glass window on his house, and fire away. If you dont have an asshole neighbor, use someone else's asshole neighbor's car or house.
Note: Buy one bullet for every hole you need. Buy two for each hole if you're a lousy shot. If you insist on using a drill, buy two drill bits for each hole. They will always brake when you're hole is 83.6% done.
One last thing. If your drill has a cord, be sure to pay the electric bill before drilling. The power company always turns off the power when you're half done drilling or sawing or sanding. That's why you should always have hand tools in your toolbox.
For anything smaller than 1/2", you'll probably be limited to standard twist drill bits.
For 1/2" or larger holes in construction work, I prefer to use self feed auger bits. When you're drilling holes for plumbing or electrical, you're usually drilling in confined spaces at weird angles. Not to mention, you're often balancing on a ladder to drill the holes which limits the force you can apply. The self feed bits really help pull the drill through the wood.
In a pinch, the flat spade bits do a nice job for rough holes also.
If you need a clean hole, regardless of the bit type, drill through from one side just till the bit starts to poke through the opposite side. Then drill from the other side of the wood to complete the hole.
When you start getting up to the 2" and larger auger bits, you'll probably have to use a low speed, high torque, corded drill. Be sure to use the extra handle (if you have one), and brace it against something. Hitting a knot with a 2" auger bit at full speed can rip your arm off! :)
G. Morgan wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@Osama-is-dead.net:
a brad-point bit will leave a better hole than a spade bit,and clear the chips better,too,especially in a thick workpiece.(and a small diameter bit) Is "paddle bit" the PC way of avoiding the word "spade"?
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