Crown Molding - Anyone ever use the Compound Miter Jig

I'm looking into installing crown molding in my home. I came across the Rockler Compound Miter Jig (http://www.allwoodwork.com/article/woodwork/crown_molding_made_easy.htm ) and it seems like it should work. This way I don't have to deal with figuring out the angles and whatever else needs to be done. Has anyone else used this product and does it work? Seems like $20 is money well spent if it will save some time and frustration. Thanks...
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I don't have one of these jigs but essentially build my own (which coincidentally, is very similar to the one Rockler has manufactured). Costs about $3 in hardware and scrap wood. I've only used it to put moulding on a hutch but it worked well for that. Cheers, cc

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never used it - If you are trying to avoid coping inside angles, my advice, don't. Even if you have a perfect angle on an inside corner it will eventually open up as wood expands and contracts. Your inside corners will look a lot better, for longer, if you cope them. Spend the $$ on a good blade for your mitre saw, a coping saw, and a few rat tail files.
Also - "a little caulk and a little paint make a carpenter what he ain't"

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hi, cc. could you give some details in how you made yours? thanks
phil
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snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net wrote:

Sure. It's pretty much identical to the one Rockler is selling. I took two straight and flat boards (I used MDF) and put them together at 90 degrees. I then routed out a couple of slots on the horizontal piece and attached a 3rd board to the horizontal one with some handled bolts (I forget the name of them....they have a flat end that moves in the slot below the jig and when you have them where you want them, you can tighten them up). As for the size, that would depend on your moulding, which saw you're using, etc.... It's really pretty simple. Let me know if you have any more questions. Cheers, cc
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Sounds like training wheels substituting for the real thing. The other poster suggested rat tail files. Another way to get a good cope is to cope just shy of the line, then take a very sharp Stanley knife and clean it up.
Anyway, I personally prefer to lay crown molding flat on the miter saw and do a compound cut. That way there is no chance of the wood slipping, thereby throwing off the angle. I get consistent cuts every time.
My first couple of forays into CM were, well, disasters. But after making big piles of sawdust I learned how to do it pretty darn well.
As for this tool compensating for out of true walls, just cut some test pieces from scrap.
As my wholistic medicine and spiritual faith healer advises me, "Learn to cope", it will serve you well.

the
(http://www.allwoodwork.com/article/woodwork/crown_molding_made_easy.htm )
anyone else

spent if

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Let's see. The original poster asked if anyone had experience with this particular item. At least four "experts" respond, all of which admit they do NOT have this gadget but feel qualified to judge it's usefulness.
Actually, it IS worth the $20. I have one and although I've cut a fair amount of molding without it, it makes the job easier, especially a DIYer that doesn't do this type of work daily. However, you still have to figure out angles. Be prepared to waste some material.

else
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Where did I claim to be an "expert"? In fact, I said right up front I had not used this Jig nor that I have installed extensive amounts of moulding. I simply was offering a cheaper alternative that I have used which coincidentally, is nearly identical to the jig the OP is asking about.
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[Top posting repaired]

Good review, and maybe worth the OP's time & money to check it out.
I used this system to install about 40 ft. of very hard hickory crown molding in my kitchen, which has a cathedral ceiling and cabinets/soffets at several angles off 90 degrees. Once I got the hang of the basic principles, the system worked beautifully:
http://www.compoundmiter.com /
You can buy the spreadsheets to figure out miter cuts online, and the book and protractor at HD.
-Frank
--
fwarner1-at-franksknives-dot-com
Here\'s some of my work:
  Click to see the full signature.
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You don't need to have tried the tool to know that no matter how perfect an inside miter cut is made, it is inferior to a well coped joint.
You may be an "expert" on this tool, but you may want to read up on basic joinery.
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The Rockler jig is the same as a good set of crown stops and a tall fence on your saw and is for cutting your crown propped up. The heigth of the back of the jig allows you to cut wider crown because it is taller than most saw fences. If you saw lacks crown stops and a tall fence then this jig will help. If installing crown on a slope ceiling with outside corners this jig can not be used and the crown must be cut laying flat. The best way to cut crown is laying flat with a proper compound miter cut to fit the corner exactly. For complete information and tools to make you crown job easier, visit us on line at www.compoundmiter.com
Do-It-Yourself Crown Molding & Trim: Install It Like A PRO!
Sincerely yours Wayne Drake, President CompoundMiter, Inc.
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What a scumbag company you run!!!
Ever hear of integrity, morality, honesty?
On Wed, 05 Jul 2006 07:57:27 -0500, "CompoundMiter"

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JimL wrote:

Ok, he is guilty of advertising, but the advice he gives APPEARS to be good and the web site is a good source of info for DIYers.

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Robert,
Don't know whether his tools and methods are good but I'm troubled by his advertising. He seems to be replying to people but I don't recall the original posts. I read this newsgroup nearly every day and I don't recall all of this recent interest in compound miter problems. A quick Google using the term "molding" suggests that he's answering posts from last Fall. Thus, he's not helping the original posters, their projects were completed a long time ago. Like JimL I wonder about his integrity in pretending that his comments are more than advertising. I would not buy a used car from this man. Used a coping saw, myself
Dave M.
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