First, check that you have 240 volts on the terminals of the machine. If you
do, any number of possibilities exist,including a bad element. At 17 years,
you may want to put repair $$ toward a new machine
Probably the elements, but first check that you have 240 volts to them.
Obviously if you do, and they are not heating, they are bad. I doubt new
elements are terribly expensive, and replacing them can be a DIY
project. Dunno about your machine, but I worked on a GE dryer that was a
lot older than yours. The elements were behind the drum so the drum had
to be pulled out to get to them. This particular one was a major PITA
because the w&d were in a little storeroom with NO room to work,(I swear
i looked like the room was built around the machines), and it was during
the middle of summer in S.Tx. If your machine is in a place where there
is ample room to work, it shouldn't be that hard. I don't think there is
anything really tricky about the job. Go for it--worse case, you screw
it up and have to buy a new one anyway. Larry
Yeah, the element is usually in the rear. I've changed one on a Speed
Queen Commercial Dryer that I bought used. That dryer lasted about 37
years before the steel drum split apart. I called about a new drum, and
gave them the model number, and they asked for the "rest of the model
number" and when I told them that was it they were quite amused.
Interestingly, most of the parts were still available, and often the
same as the current production.
It's not a hard job to change it, but you have to get back there. 17
years old is not that old for a dryer.
there's nothing to a dryer. So no real reason to replace it (at a cost of
$300 - $1000) just because it needs a $79 element. As mentioned before,
make sure you have proper electric service to the machine. Then unplug it
and start taking it apart from the back. You'll find there's about a half a
dozen parts that make up the entire machine, and you'll probably find the
element burned out. COULD be a thermostat switch, but they are easy to
check with an ohm meter.
"badgolferman" < email@example.com> wrote in message
There are three single post connections on the back of the drum with
only one wire going to them. When not running they each have 15 VAC on
them and when running they each have 120 VAC. With the wires off they
all have some resistance between each other but not the same ohm value.
If the element was bad wouldn't there be an open between those three
There are also two other sensor type items with two wires each. One is
black and has numbers on it. It has a short between the posts with the
wires off. The other also has a short between the posts with the wires
I messed around with all the wires on the switch panel. I took them
off and put them back on again. The dryer HAS started to work again.
I will keep my fingers crossed and hope it was just corroded contacts.
Thanks for the help you all gave.
The good thing is that everyone thinks you're a genius! I fixed my
father-in-law's TV by taking the back off and putting it back on. I
suspected a bad relay for the on-off switch, as I've seen this before,
but whatever was wrong it's been working for about five years now.
On Fri, 9 Feb 2007 11:43:59 -0500, "RBM" <rbm2(remove
I'm assuming for the moment that it is an electricla problem. There
woudl be an open if the element was bad, unless there is another way
to get from A to B. Sometimes there are multiple paths to the same
place. Is there a wiring diagram on the inside of the cover you took
off, or anywhere?
When you don't know if there is an alternate electric path, the best
thing is to disconnect one of the two wires from its post, and measure
the wire only to the other post. You can also measure from the post
only (with the wire disconnected) to the other post to confirm that
there is an alternate path. The total resistance of two resistors in
parallel is found with the formula 1/a + 1/b = 1/total . If, for
example, b is infinite, the 1/a = 1/total .
But maybe all the elements are good and it's some other problem.
Before to measure voltage before measureing resistance at the same
place. Don't want to burn out the meter, or yourself.
Keep close track of whether the dryer is plugged in or not.
That wiring diagram would give an idea what they are. One might be
temp sensor, that opens if it gets too hot, or a dampness sensor if
you have that feature on your dryer.
BTW, my washer and dryer are 27 years old and working fine. I only
do laundry for myself, but still, when they are 37 years old that will
be like 18 years for two people.
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