Closing a house in the northeast for the winter.

I'm not sure if I have everything covered. I know I need RV fluid in the drains of the tub, sink, kitchen sink and toilet. I need to drain all the water pipes and baseboard upstairs. What about the boiler and water pump in the basement? Will it freeze enough down there? What else did I forget?
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Van Chocstraw
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Van Chocstraw wrote:

At this time of year, the boiler should be fine.
Dishwasher and wash m/c pumps and valves can freeze and burst. Icemaker feed.
Jim
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I've never seen a wash motor / cycle pump before. Got a link?
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It was 18 degrees at my house this morning, about the same tonight. Considering that a boiler cost $4000 to $8000 to replace, do you want to take a chance? Takes about 10 to 20 minutes to drain it.
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wrote:

Does your hot water come from the boiler, or is there a separate water heater? If so, need to drain the water heater.
Had a copper feed line to the washer break one time when I forgot to blow it out.
If you have an electric water heater, be SURE to turn off the power to it before draining - DAMHIKT.
Jerry
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wrote:

Its Thaw season, only you will know if boiler-basement area goes below a safe 35f. How about leave a light on, a 100w incandesant puts out 94w of actual heat, actualy its more, so run a few.
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ransley wrote:

I'm thinking for next winter.
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Van Chocstraw wrote:

don't forget the drain trap for the laundry. I'd say yes, blow out and/or drain the entire boiler system including any expansion tank(s). And the water heater. I'd say yes, there's a chance you could below freezing even in a basement in the NE. Where exactly in the NE?
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Steve Barker wrote:

Maybe I could put thermostatically controlled heat tapes on some things and wrap the pipes.
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wrote:

Boiler is critical, but air-Oxygen is worse as it allows rust and kills Boilers fast. The water in there now has had the Oxygen cooked out from day 1. I would not want Air in my boiler at all or Pumps. www.heatinghelp.com ask at. Antifreeze Lowers efficency so I would be carefull. Old boilers had Pilot lights. Heat tape, or a light bulb works. What is basement temp low. Boilers are a risk, furnaces are no issue.
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wrote:

Yr in a Pickle Barrel, Antifreeze does not transfer Heat like Water. Antifreeze will cost you more to heat as it lowers efficiency. An example, my friend with a work truck chevy 350 was proud he had 100% antifreeze but complained of no interior heat. I told him 100% antifreeze is no good, he drained out half and added water and finally got heat out of his heater core. No manufacturer recomends more then 50-50 antifreeze because the motor will overheat in summer since Glycol is a poor heat transfer liqued compared to water, Ethylene Glycol is needed for Corrosion, Antifreeze and Boilover protection , think about why 50-50 is recommended ! Racers use water and maybe Red Line, Water Wetter for corrosion protection and a bit of antifreeze. Add enough anti freeze and you lower efficiency maybe 20-30%.
Also adding new water is bad as minerals cook out and scale the boiler at the bottom. The Bottom is where the Fire is, to much new water and you lower efficiency with scale build up id water has minerals in it, just like your car says to use Distilled water so you dont clog the heater core and radiator, then you hear Popping as the boiler runs as its scalled. Boilers are sealed forever to run best. Oxygen- air- new water = Rust and a boiler replacement soon. I have 2 Boilers that are maybe installed in the 50s, if I left air in them they would have rusted out 40 yrs ago.
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wrote:

Think about all the rust breaking loose-flaking off that occured in the drain period, it will settle at the bottom of the boiler and cut efficiency dramaticly. www.heatinghelp.com is better but I would not want my system drained for winters. I have seen 50-60- 70 yr old boilers in friends houses that dont leak and have no rust because the oxygen was cooked out from day 1 firing. What you propose may ruin everything from rust and cost a lot in future repairs. A rusted pipe leaks from Oxygen-Air, boiler Auto Fill doesnt fill, boiler fries with no low water cutoff, or Low Water Cutoff fails.
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wrote:

You have plaster walls? extreme cold can cause plaster to spall, the layers fall off. homes are meant to be heated at least above freezing.low spots in water lines burst, all sorts of wierd troubles from a home freezing
set temp to 50 degrees, install security system with temperature sensor, be aware your homeowners will need to know home is vacant it makes it big tyarget for vandals and firebugs
get trusted someone top keep watch over your home probably your largest asset.
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That is not true, moisture causes plaster issues, gee my Plaster wall house has been unheated for 2 winters at -15f below zero, Chicago area
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Tell the insurance co its vacant and they wont cover you at the same price
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dont tell them someone torches home investigator from insurance finds it was vacant they werent notified?
NO COVERAGE FOR LOSS:(
expect insurance to go up by 5 times for vacancy.......
better to get somone to live there while your gone, perhaps a realtive. let them use home for free and just pay utilities.
you save they save:)
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I have a vacation home, its a regular policy. You say you visit it often and keep lights on so you have a utility bill. I have a wood fireplace. It is possible to be denied, your insurance broker is who you should ask.
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On Wed, 25 Feb 2009 18:29:15 -0500, Van Chocstraw

Insurance policy. Many don't cover empty houses.
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