Chainsaw sharpening

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On Sun, 31 Jan 2010 08:13:27 -0800 (PST), Harry K

I just eyeball the angle and grind until I get a nice clean cup in the tooth. The height of the bump in the back has never been a problem. It seems to wear down about as fast as the hook. That may be from all the sand here.
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Steve B wrote:

The short answer is: Unless you use the saw professionally and have to sharpen it a lot, just take your chains to a shop where they will sharpen them correctly for a few bucks.
The Oregon micro-chisel chains I use (non-anti kickback "pro" chains and highly recommended if you know how to handle a chainsaw) have a reference line stamped into each cutter link to help you field sharpen without any alignment jig.
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TY. Will look at my Oregon chains tomorrow.
Steve
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It is on most brands of chain. An angle bar stamped on top of the tooth near the back. It also serves (unneeded though) as the point you should quit filing and throw the chain away. It only give s the top angle, on most chains the file should also be held with some "up" angle, usually around 10 degrees.
Harry K
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It is on most brands of chain. An angle bar stamped on top of the tooth near the back. It also serves (unneeded though) as the point you should quit filing and throw the chain away. It only give s the top angle, on most chains the file should also be held with some "up" angle, usually around 10 degrees.
Harry K
Found my Oregon clamp on filer today. Clamped it on, and it seems to do the deed. Can't find my manual, though, but remember enough about it to (I think) sharpen them. Will look at that stamp tomorrow, though. The filer was still set at the old angles, so I must have taken them off of the manual.
Steve
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My guide is set at 35 and 10 which will do a good job on most chains. If you buy a new chain, the angles should be listed on the box.
Harry K
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