On 1/9/2011 10:18 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Replace the plug. It has a poor connection that resulted in overheating
which was left go until it ruined the outlet... and then ruined the
other outlet. The average person thinks they are safe from electrical
fires if the fuses/breakers work, and there is no short circuits. The
truth is that most electrical fires are due to poor connections... just
like you have. It should have been repaired after it burnt up the first
outlet. Be sure to replace the outlets also. If you can't replace the
plug and the outlets, please call a qualified electrician before you
burn down the office.
My neighbour had a fire in an 4-outlet box(industry quality) 4 days
Turned out, one of the screws was not tightened enough,
the insulation had burned off 2 inches of wire, and a short
developed, where the wire touched the other feed wire, but current
was not enough to trip the fuse, because there was no actual metal
contact, just carbonized insulation(when hot, that conducts).
After checking out the whole box, 6 screws turned out to be tightened
So, it might be prudent to check out wiring and screws in your office.
In our case, the outlets were high quality, but assembly sucked.
The outlet in question fell apart when checked out.
Best way to sell a house now days. When you get an arc going all bets
are off as to how much heat is generated and woe to you if the wall has
flammable covering or a curtain is against it.
Ever do any arc welding?
From the looks of the photos though this one looks like it might have
been to much current going through a bad internal connection for to long
of time. And probably someone didn't get a good connection when they
attached the plug to the wire or pinched the wire to much or not enough
when attaching the plug. What device or devices is this thing running?
It must require lot of current. Things like this are not supposed to
Nowhere that this kind of outlet is used is it legal for a non-
electrician to replace outlets or plugs in an office or workplace.
Have an electrician come in and replace both.
If you don't believe me, ask your insurance agent. Better him than the
adjuster who comes in after something burns down.
I presume the reason you -- er, "someone" -- put an aftermarket plug
on the cord is because the equipment came with a 30A plug, probably a
twistlock. You may think that you've loaded it lightly enough that it
won't draw more than 15A, but you may be wrong. Have the sparky quote
on a proper 30A circuit installation while he's there.
If you do put it all back together in a 15A config, get yourself a
Kill-A-Watt or other current monitor and find out what you're really
drawing. If it's more than 12A continuous, you should not be on a 15A
circuit. Some offices are wired all 12-gauge even on 15A circuits; if
that's the case, depending on length and local regs, your electrician
may be able to swap in a 20A breaker and T-slot receptacle.
Maybe that is true in Canada Chip, but here in much of the US
it is perfectly OK for maintenance technicians to repair or replace
installed electrical devices (outlets, switches and fixtures) with
identically rated devices without an electrical license...
Now whether or not the maintenance technician is good at doing
that sort of work is an entirely different subject, but it is
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